The Fine Young Gentleman http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com Of matters concerning men's dress, fashion & style Tue, 17 Mar 2015 15:04:57 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=4.1.1 FYGblog Found Elsewhere http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/random-tangents/fygblog-found-elsewhere/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=fygblog-found-elsewhere http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/random-tangents/fygblog-found-elsewhere/#comments Tue, 17 Mar 2015 15:04:57 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=10836 Dear Readers, Over the past few weeks both content from The Fine Young Gentleman as well as an interview of myself has been posted on outlets aside from this here blog.  First, a few weeks ago an interview of myself by Eric Scriberras of MentorMe Podcast was posted.  The discussion focuses primarily on my journey to start Jay Butler and even The Fine Young Gentleman.  Which all started during my time as an auditor at Deloitte.  The interview lasts for roughly 45 minutes so I will not be offended if you do not listen to it.  But, if you are … Continue reading

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Dear Readers,

Over the past few weeks both content from The Fine Young Gentleman as well as an interview of myself has been posted on outlets aside from this here blog.  First, a few weeks ago an interview of myself by Eric Scriberras of MentorMe Podcast was posted.  The discussion focuses primarily on my journey to start Jay Butler and even The Fine Young Gentleman.  Which all started during my time as an auditor at Deloitte.  The interview lasts for roughly 45 minutes so I will not be offended if you do not listen to it.  But, if you are at all interested in starting your own thing, it could be worth your while.  If any of you have any questions about starting a blog or company or leaving a secure career, feel free to ask questions in the comments section.  We can start a discussion right here on FYG.

Second, I was recently asked by Forbes of Czechoslovakia if they could use my chart on matching shoe color with trouser color, I thought it was a cool idea so I obliged.  If any of you can read or understand Czech it may prove to be a nice read.

We will be back to our regularly scheduled programming of sometimes snarky style advice and reviews next time, stay tuned.

mentorme jay butler ss-JLJ

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The Good, The Bad And The Ugly: The Men of The 2015 Oscars http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/black-tie/men-2015-oscars/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=men-2015-oscars http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/black-tie/men-2015-oscars/#comments Wed, 25 Feb 2015 20:41:39 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=10800 Ask and now you shall receive.  Apologies for missing the Golden Globes and Grammys this year, but fear not, I’m not going to skip out on all three shows.  Sadly for my judgemental side, things were looking pretty good this year.  But as always, there were a few guys who just couldn’t pull it together.  Aside from some snarky commentary I will also throw in some educational bits on how some of the men could’ve taken their black time game from good to great. A few things to note.  The night was laden with shawl collars and wide lapels, both … Continue reading

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Ask and now you shall receive.  Apologies for missing the Golden Globes and Grammys this year, but fear not, I’m not going to skip out on all three shows.  Sadly for my judgemental side, things were looking pretty good this year.  But as always, there were a few guys who just couldn’t pull it together.  Aside from some snarky commentary I will also throw in some educational bits on how some of the men could’ve taken their black time game from good to great.

A few things to note.  The night was laden with shawl collars and wide lapels, both of which are things that are looked upon kindly here at FYGblog.  Things that are not looked kindly upon are not wearing a pocket square with a tuxedo and anything Will.i.am wears.

sdfg

Let’s start things off with one of the best dressed men of the night, Eddie Redmayne.  Hid midnight blue tuxedo fits perfectly and all of the details are spot on.  Take notes gentlemen.

sdfg

Another exceptionally well dressed gent was Benedict Cumberbatch.  Out of everyone, he did the white jacket the best.  Although he does need to shorten his sleeves and pants slightly to show a little cuff and decrease the break. Lastly, Benedict would do better with a slightly taller bow tie, it is too small for his head.

sdfg

These days its hard to expect what McConaughey is going to pull out.  Although the fit of his jacket looks to be pretty good I personally don’t care for the fabric.  The vest is also not meant to be worn with a tuxedo, but with a regular suit.   Better luck next time.

sdf

Someone always has to try the black shirt, always.  And just like every man who has done so before him, Kevin Hart would’ve done better for himself in a white shirt.

sdfg

Chris Pine: killing the double breasted game.

sdfg

I don’t know or care who Miles Teller is.  But the lady in his arm is a whole other story.  Who did your boob job?  My future wife may need your doctors services.  Now, if you’ll excuse me.

sdfg

I am pretty sure we all know that John Travolta is a bit of an odd duck by this point.  But whatever prompted him to put this outfit together is beyond me.  Pretty much everything about it is wrong.  Runner up for worst dressed man.

What is wrong with Will.i.iam's outfit?  Hm, let's see.  EVERYTHING.

What is wrong with Will.i.iam’s outfit? Hm, let’s see. EVERYTHING.  White girls would say ‘I can’t even’.  Without question the worst dressed man of the night.

sdfg

I applaud Selma star David Oyelowo for his adventurousness.  The color and fit of his tux are great.  I just wish he would’ve worn a bow tie that was black and a pocket square.  PS – if you have not seen Selma, go see it; an incredible film.

sdgf

In another example of coloring outside the lines, Neil Patrick Harris donned a fantastic light grey shawl collared tuxedo.  Like Mr. Oyelowo, NPH would done better with a black bow tie and a pocket square.  But an exceptional ensemble nonetheless.

sdfg

Things to never do: button both buttons on a two button jacket.

sdfg

Props to Chris Pratt for giving hope to many an average white guy.  His shawl collar tux game is on point.

sdfg

As always Bradley Cooper is looking suave.  I have a few issues with Clint Eastwood’s ensemble but he 100% legend so he can do whatever he wants as far as I am concerned.

sdfg

Is that a Daytona?  I really hope it is.

sdfg

Usually I am a Channing Tatum fan but he’s not on his A game this time round.  First of all, flap pockets are not at home on a tuxedo jacket.  Second, the lapels are not wide enough for his shoulders; they need about another inch of width to be in a good proportion to his body.  As we know proportions are of the utmost importance with tailored clothing.

sdfg

Would not have expected Andy Samburg to pull such strong tux game.  Aside from his pre-tied bow tie (which is anathema) his ensemble is great.

-JLJ

 

GQ, GQ UK, Sydney Morning Herald, Oscars,

 

 

 

 

 

sdfg

If you thought this post was going to go down without mention of Jared Leto’s get up then think again.  I think he took this outfit from the rejects closet from your local prom tux rental store.  The only justification for wearing something that is both this comedic and horrific is drugs.  Likely in massive quantities.  But even then…

 

 

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The Knot Standard Suit Review, 2.0 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/suits/knot-standard-suit-review-2-0/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=knot-standard-suit-review-2-0 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/suits/knot-standard-suit-review-2-0/#comments Sat, 14 Feb 2015 21:30:55 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=10765 It was nearly two years ago that I first reviewed Knot Standard. The review was pretty positive, however, there were a few marks against the brand. A few months back we decided to do another review of Knot Standards custom suits and jackets, in this case just a jacket. I’m glad Knot Standard and I gave it a second go, sometimes one time just isn’t enough. Since my first review a few things have changed at Knot Standard. The website, the branding, the fabric selection and sales channels are perhaps the most notable. The most important of the 4, as … Continue reading

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It was nearly two years ago that I first reviewed Knot Standard. The review was pretty positive, however, there were a few marks against the brand. A few months back we decided to do another review of Knot Standards custom suits and jackets, in this case just a jacket. I’m glad Knot Standard and I gave it a second go, sometimes one time just isn’t enough.

Since my first review a few things have changed at Knot Standard. The website, the branding, the fabric selection and sales channels are perhaps the most notable. The most important of the 4, as relates to this review is the sales channels. When I first worked with Knot Standard back in late 2012/early 2013 I do not believe they had any of their showrooms in operation. Now they have 6 (NYC, DC, Austin, Dallas, Houston and Dubai), I imagine they will open more as time goes on. So, why is this relevant?

Whereas with my first suit from Knot Standard I submitted my measurements online, this time I went to their NYC flagship showroom. Which for a number of reasons is a very different experience. First, you are fitted by one of Knot Standard’s stylists/fitters. I was fitted by Marisa and Samantha, whom both seemed rather competent. Second, the fabric selection in the showrooms is much more comprehensive than what is online. By that I mean there are hundreds, if not thousands of fabrics to choose from. For me, the latter benefit was of more interest. There was a book shelf laden with swatch books from Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry, Ariston, VBC and more. I nerd out over stuff like that.

If you do not live near any of those 6 cities, you are always welcome to browse their online collection, which is still quite strong. Online, suits range from $495 to $995 online but can go much higher in the showrooms depending on what fabric is selected.  Suits start at $795 in the showrooms, however, all jackets are fully canvassed, not half canvassed (which is the case for the intro level jackets online.  Knot Standard likes to say that the showrooms pick up where online leaves off (which is not meant as a bad thing) in that it does provide so many more options for fabrics.  It also takes the burden of measurements off of the customer and on the brand, which for some guys is a deal breaker.

knot standard nyc store fabric books knot standard nyc store fitting

After taking about 20 minutes to run through all of the swatch books of interest I settled on a blue windowpane tweed from Ariston, an Italian mill (I received the jacket for purposes of review, however, it would cost around $1,200). We settled on a jacket, although I wish I would’ve ordered pants to go with the jacket (not only because this fabric in a full suit would be absurd but also it would’ve allowed me to review Knot Standards pants as well). As you can see, the fabric is rather aggressive, but not so much that it is tacky or tasteless. It is quite an exceptional fabric, both in its quality and style.  The flecks of the tweed give it a lot of interest and depth.

The details I chose for the jacket are as follows: peak lapels (4.0” width), 2 button, 2 side vents, Milanese lapel button hole, functioning sleeve buttons (3), barchetta (rounded slanted) breast pocket and half canvassed. I also specified the buttoning point.

knot standard suit ariston fabric jacket

When the jacket first arrived I again met with Samantha in order to make alterations. However, we did not meet in NYC, we met in Philadelphia. Which brings up a few important points. First, that Knot Standard covered the alterations and sent the jacket back to me which was an easy and cost free operation on my end. Second, that they do from time to time travel to cities where they do not have showrooms. For instance, Samantha comes to Philadelphia on a fairly regular basis so for all of you Philly guys that may be something to keep in mind.  This is not something that would come with an online sale.  It is really a different experience when you work with the showrooms as opposed to online.  The extra work that is put in on Knot Standard’s (in this case Samantha’s) end certainly showed through in the whole experience, including the customer service.  Anyway, Samantha and I agreed to lengthen the sleeves slightly and bring in the waist. Once all of the alterations were done the jacket is as you see it now.

knot standard tweed windowpane jacket

After alterations the fit of the jacket is great.  The shoulders (which I like that they have very little padding) are comfortable and set well on my frame.  The jacket also has a nice shape from the arms to skirt and is not too long.  Overall the jacket has a great fit and look good.  The pattern matching at the shoulder/sleevehead is also quite good, which is not an issue for solids, but for large scale checks like this windowpane the pattern matching is of more importance.

knot standard suit review

The back of the jacket sits well on my back.  There is no bunching or creasing of the fabric which is good.

knot standard milanese lapel button hole

That boutonniere is really a thing of beauty.  If only all were this nice.

knot standard lapel flower loop

The underside of the lapel is another area where Knot Standard does well on the details.  The flower loop below the boutonniere, the stitching between the lapel and collar and the flap of fabric folded to underneath the collar are all nice details.

knot standard boat breast pocket

It is hard to see at first, but the breast pocket is there.  It is a nice rounded shape, which I think is a nice detail.  However, the pattern matching could be a little better, you can see that the horizontal stripe does not quite line up.  From this photo you can also see the beauty and depth of the fabric.  Almost like a Donegal tweed with all of the flecks of various shades of blue and white.

knot standard button hole

The button holes are nice.  The stitching is tight and even.  The color of the stitching is also well matched with the fabric.

knot standard button shanking

Good shanking on the front buttons.  And that fabric again, so nice.

ariston blue windowpane tweed fabric

As I noted before, I opted for flapped hacking pockets.  Knot Standard did a better job of the pattern matching on the flaps than on the breast pocket, almost perfectly aligned with the pattern on the bottom part of the jacket.

knot standard blue paisley jacket lining

The lining I choose is a nice light blue paisley, it ties well with the light blue from the tweed.  The stitching around the sleeve head looks to be done by hand, which is preferable to a machine for this area of the jacket.  In other areas machine stitching is preferable.

knot standard sleeve buttons

One of the nice options that Knot Standard has in its showrooms is the ability to choose from a variety of buttons.  For this jacket I chose a medium brown, which goes well with the fabric.  The sleeve button holes are nicely stitched and spaced.

This jacket is badass. There is really no way around it. It fits well, it looks good and is well made (for those that care, Knot Standard has its products made in China). For those of you looking to spend $500 and not $1,200 you should know that really the only difference between my jacket and yours would be the fabric and half canvassing vs full canvassing and the more direct customer service (their online CS is still strong). Online you can still get all of the customizations you can in the showroom. I would argue that Knot Standard is the leader in its price bracket for the diversity of customizations that they can offer, which for the more particular of us, is something worth taking into account.  At the end of the day it is hard to knock this jacket or the process to get it (including dealing with Samantha) much.  That said, I recommend Knot Standard to those in the market for a custom suit or jacket, especially if you have a plethora of specific customizations you would like done.  If you have any questions, comments or thoughts of your own; please feel free to share them.

-JLJ

 

Note: FYGblog did receive the jacket being reviewed for the purpose of review.  The utmost effort was taken to provide a useful and unbiased review on the brand and item at hand.

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Top 10 Tips For Buying Made To Measure Suits http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/made-to-measure-2/top-10-tips-buying-made-to-measure-suit/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=top-10-tips-buying-made-to-measure-suit http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/made-to-measure-2/top-10-tips-buying-made-to-measure-suit/#comments Fri, 30 Jan 2015 22:55:50 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=10745 Made to measure suits have been written about a lot on this web site.  A LOT (I think I have reviewed more made to measure brands than anyone else on the web). However, in most cases I am either reviewing a made to measure suit brand or advising guys that made to measure is a superior alternative to off the rack suits. Which, a vast majority of the time, it is (the image to the right I have seen used on numerous sites to extol the benefits of mtm vs otr/rtw, it should go without saying but the photo on … Continue reading

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Made to measure suits have been written about a lot on this web site.  A LOT (I think I have reviewed more made to measure brands than anyone else on the web). However, in most cases I am either reviewing a made to measure suit brand or advising guys that made to measure is a superior alternative to off the rack suits. Which, a vast majority of the time, it is (the image to the right I have seen used on numerous sites to extol the benefits of mtm vs otr/rtw, it should go without saying but the photo on the left is an off the rack suit where that on the right is a made to measure). Admittedly, what I have sometimes slacked on is providing useful advice on getting the best made to measure suit you can get. For that I apologize. Perhaps I have strayed from the original mission of this blog; to provide useful, practical and applicable style advice to men who want to dress better.

So, ‘how can I get the best made to measure suit?’ You may wonder. I know that I have been asked that question more than a few times. I’d like to boil my thoughts down to a few points that I think every man can use.  Some of these points are pretty obvious, but others are not and may even seem weird or unnecessary.  But trust me, after ordering 15+ suits and jackets online these are some lessons that I’ve learned the hard way…  Please keep in mind that this list is by no means comprehensive and will be added to over time, much like the Rules of Men’s Dress section of this site, but this provide a good starting point and some things to think about.

  1. Do not get functioning buttonholes. Why? Functioning buttonholes make alterations to sleeve length much more difficult (and more expensive), especially with patterned fabrics. This is because often times to maintain the correct distance between the end of the sleeve and the last button (around 1.25-1.5”) the sleeve needs to be shortened from the shoulder, not the end of the sleeve. Whereas, with non-functioning buttonholes the sleeves can be shortened or lengthened from the end of the sleeve and the buttons moved as needed; this is a much easier and less costly alteration.
  2. Error on the conservative side, when in doubt make measurements larger, rather than smaller. Why? It is easier to take out fabric then add it. Most jackets and pants come with very little, if any, fabric to let out, thus diminishing the possibility of making something larger. However, it is easier to take something in and make it smaller. As an example: your friend measures your chest as somewhere between 41” and 42” but isn’t sure. Go with 42”. If you go with 41’ and the jacket comes and is too tight, it may be impossible to let it out. However, if you go with 42” and it is too big, then it can easily be taken in.
  3. Don’t try to take your own measurements.  You may be able to easily take some measurements like wrist and bicep; taking measurements of your shoulders and legs could prove impossible to do by yourself.
  4. If you have a friend take the measurements, have them double check or have a second friend take the measurements. Additionally, if a brand has videos or guides on how to take the measurements (which they should), watch them. Why? Because any given brand may have a slightly different way of measuring and interpreting measurements.  So it is always good to double check how they want you to take the measurements.
  5. Go with what you are comfortable with, don’t try to be something or someone you are not. Wearing a suit well is due in large part to the fit of the suit and what you pair with it. However, the importance of wearing something that is in your style comfort zone should not be overlooked.  Nor should the importance of wearing something with confidence.
  6. Research the type of look you want. This includes fabric color/pattern, button stance, gorge height, little details (side tabs, suspender buttons, interior pockets etc), shoulder type, front quarter disposition etc. This is particularly important if you are planning on working with a shop that can accommodate a multitude of custom requests like My Tailor, Ravis, Mohans or Knot Standard. If you want a certain look, inquire with whatever makers you are debating using to see if that is something that they can do.
  7. Have expectations, but don’t make them ridiculous. You can’t expect the world from a $500 suit – it is likely that the suit will not be perfect!  Too many times I receive emails from readers asking how this, that and the third can be fixed.  Or why wasn’t this or that done.  I’ve also had some of these thoughts before.  But at the end of the day you have to be realistic in your expectations.
  8. Research the makers. This goes along with points 4 & 5. If you have a certain look you are going for or have a certain set of criteria you want met, for instance full canvassing vs half canvassing or a more structured shoulder rather than a less structured one, then seek out a maker that can meet those criteria.
  9. Don’t be afraid to ask for alterations and remakes. Just because something has been made specifically for you does not mean it is going to fit out of the box. In fact, chances are far better that it won’t. Count on making some alterations to the garment, fortunately, many makers will either make the alterations themselves or give you a credit to have the alterations made. In some instances, alterations are not enough to fix a jacket or pants; or they are too costly. Ask for a remake, especially if the brand did the measuring (and is thus without question at fault) and not you.
  10. Know where the blame lies for errors. Contrary to what many customers think, the customer is not always right. Sometimes the blame for a poor fitting suit lies with the customer. Sorry guys, but it’s true. I am even to blame for the some the things that I have had made not fitting well. If you give the brand incorrect measurements and the garments come out fitting poorly then it is not the brands fault. It is yours. However, on the flipside, if you gave them flawless measurements and the garment fits poorly then it is their fault.

-JLJ

 

Image credit – Suavv, although admittedly, I am not sure the image is originally theirs, but it is where I pulled it from.

 

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Chensvold Is Back At It: Masculine Interiors http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/mens-style/chensvold-masculine-interiors/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=chensvold-masculine-interiors http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/mens-style/chensvold-masculine-interiors/#comments Fri, 23 Jan 2015 17:19:14 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=10737 Dear Readers, Not realizing that it had been almost 3 weeks since my last post I knew I had to get something up ASAP. I am sorry for being so absent the last few weeks, I’ve been a bit consumed by other activities (like shoes).  Fortunately, some of my menswear writer friends have been keeping to putting out some original content.  One such I would like to highlight today is Christian Chensvold.  I hope you enjoy what he is up to these days.  In the next post we will revert to the more usual line of conversation. Long time fans … Continue reading

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Dear Readers,

Not realizing that it had been almost 3 weeks since my last post I knew I had to get something up ASAP. I am sorry for being so absent the last few weeks, I’ve been a bit consumed by other activities (like shoes).  Fortunately, some of my menswear writer friends have been keeping to putting out some original content.  One such I would like to highlight today is Christian Chensvold.  I hope you enjoy what he is up to these days.  In the next post we will revert to the more usual line of conversation.

Long time fans of this blog may or may not know of my fandom for the things Christian Chensvold over at Ivy Style puts out.  His first foray into the menswear and men’s style world was Dandyism.net, which was followed by the legendary Ivy Style.  Although Dandyism has fallen a bit by the wayside, Ivy Style still goes strong.  In the past few months Christian has put his creative gears into overdrive and started two new ventures.  First, there was Golfstyle.guru and now there is Masculine Interiors.  Over the past few years Christian and I have spoken about golf on a number of occasions, to the point where I have invited him to come play my course in the burbs.  However, I was mostly unaware of his affinity for the interior design/living space realm.  Fortunately, he is putting that interest into what form he knows best, the internetwebblogthing.  The voice and content style is somewhat akin to what is available at Ivy Style, which I find to be a good thing.  I hope some of the commenter battles are also as good.  Anyway, I’ve spent a good bit of time browsing Masculine Interior’s pages the past few weeks, I hope you enjoy it as well.

masculine interiors

-JLJ

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The Cobbler Union Shoe Review http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/shoes/cobbler-union-shoe-review/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=cobbler-union-shoe-review http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/shoes/cobbler-union-shoe-review/#comments Fri, 02 Jan 2015 20:52:52 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=10701 For the past few years we have seen the online-only market for suits, shirts, ties and accessories blossom.  The lagging category has been shoes; until recently Meermin was the most prominent name.  Over the past year there have been a few brands of note that have entered the online market place; Awl & Sundry, Jack Erwin, Paul Evans, Jay Butler and Cobbler Union.    For the purposes of this post, we are ignoring the first 4 and focusing on the last name, Cobbler Union.  I suppose it was around a year ago that I first heard of Cobbler Union.  Shortly thereafter … Continue reading

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For the past few years we have seen the online-only market for suits, shirts, ties and accessories blossom.  The lagging category has been shoes; until recently Meermin was the most prominent name.  Over the past year there have been a few brands of note that have entered the online market place; Awl & Sundry, Jack Erwin, Paul Evans, Jay Butler and Cobbler Union.    For the purposes of this post, we are ignoring the first 4 and focusing on the last name, Cobbler Union.  I suppose it was around a year ago that I first heard of Cobbler Union.  Shortly thereafter the founder of the brand, Daniel Porcelli, reached out to me (he co-founded the brand with Santiago Periero).  After speaking on the phone with Daniel I was able to get a much better picture of the brand.

In short, Daniel wanted to (and for what my opinion matters he has) create an online shoe brand that provides men’s dress shoes of exceptional quality.  That is not to say that Cobbler Union may not go into physical sales in the future, but in the beginning the brand will focus on online sales.  What it does mean is that ideally the $395-475 you will pay for a pair of Cobbler Union shoes will buy you a lot more than the same amount of money would from other brands.  Although Daniel did not say it, I believe he strives to have his shoes compared to the Alfred Sargents, Crockett & Jones and Carminas of the world.  The brand is based in Atlanta, but the shoes are made in Spain.  For what it matters, I generally prefer the Spanish style of Good Year welted shoe over the English and American equivalents or the Italian Blake stitched soles; at least for dress shoes.

cobbler union louis boot and windowpane suit

So how do the shoes stack up in terms of quality, style and fit?  The look of the shoes is excellent.  Any man would do well with a pair on his feet.  The materials used for the shoes are exceptional; the leather on the upper is nice and supple and the rubber soles are Vibram and the leather soles are also of good make.  I can say this for both the pair of boots that Daniel provided me to review, the Louis model as well as the Guillame II that he provided Sabir at Men’s Style Pro; whom I know is also very happy with his boots.  Confidently, I can say that I believe this will hold true for the rest of the collection.

cobbler union louis boot

The Louis model is a derby boot.  Although a more casual boot due to the open lacing, split toe, rubber sole and pebble grain leather; they can easily be dressed up (see above photo of them worn with a double breasted suit).  The lines of the shoe are excellent, they sit on the last very well.  In fact, the overall style of the Louis is exceptional.

cobbler union shoe review

As previously noted, the shoes are Good Year welted.  The stitching is crisp and tight.  I observed no errors in the stitching on either shoe.  You can also see the stitching of the upper here, which is also very nice.

cobbler union louis shoe review

The boots have a pull atop each of them, which is very useful when putting the shoes on.  You can also see the lining leather here, which is a soft and supple leather.  Lastly, you can see the stitching detail on the heel of the boot, it is solely an aesthetic addition, but a nice one.

cobbler union split toe stitching

This is my first pair of those that have split toe stitching on them.  Historically, it is not a detail that I have fancied.  However, it works and is done so well on these boots.  It is a value adding detail in this case, when I think it is often a value deducting or value neutral detail.  You can also get a good idea of the texture of the pebble grain leather in this photo.  A very nice leather it is.

cobbler union vibram sole

The downfall of many brown shoes that have rubber soles is that the rubber sole is black, and not brown.  Big points to Cobbler Union for keeping the soles brown.

cobbler union pebble grain leather

The stitching pattern is 4 eyelets, 3 hooks and a final eyelet.  I find the hooks a nice touch, as they allow for easier donning and doffing of the boots.  Although I would not prefer it on a dress boot, it works on a less formal boot like this one.

These boots are great.  In fact, they are excellent.  They are one of my favorite items that I have reviewed in the past 3.5 years here on FYG.  The look equally as home with a suit as they do with chinos; which is often hard to pull off.  Admittedly, I will be wearing them more with the latter than the former.  If it was not made clear before, the shoes are made very well.  The construction is very clean and very crisp.  I observed no stray stitches or glue.  But for $475, that is all to be expected.  The materials used are also excellent, again, at a level that one would expect for this price.

The only check against the shoes is the price.  Which although is a very good price for the boots, it is still too high for many men, which I understand.  Even $395 for a pair of dress shoes is a lot for most men.  At the level of Aldens and slightly more expensive than Allen Edmonds.  I think you get much more for your money with Cobbler Union.  Either way, the price leaves Cobbler Union’s shoes out of range of many men.  But for those whom it is either within their budget or a slight stretch I would strongly advise that you take a hard look at what Cobbler Union has to offer.  If you have any questions, comments or experience of your own with Cobbler Union please feel free to sound off in the comments.

cobbler union louis boot quilted jacket

-JLJ

 

Note: FYG blog did receive the product reviewed for purposes of review.  The utmost effort has been taken to maintain an unbiased perspective on the brand and product at hand.

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The Unugly Christmas Sweater http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/seasonal-style/unugly-christmas-sweater/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=unugly-christmas-sweater http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/seasonal-style/unugly-christmas-sweater/#comments Fri, 19 Dec 2014 17:38:48 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=10685 There is something unappetizing about ugly Christmas sweater parties.  Maybe it’s the fact that they are in fact ugly and I don’t particularly care to wear ugly clothing.  Or maybe I am just a grinch.  Or maybe it is just one of my arguably irrational dislikes of certain items of clothing, like demin (yes, that’s right, I don’t wear denim; ever).  This isn’t to say that I will never indulge in the act of wearing an ugly Christmas sweater, I am just saying that I will potentially go to exhaustive measures to avoid wearing one.  All the meanwhile still maintaining … Continue reading

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There is something unappetizing about ugly Christmas sweater parties.  Maybe it’s the fact that they are in fact ugly and I don’t particularly care to wear ugly clothing.  Or maybe I am just a grinch.  Or maybe it is just one of my arguably irrational dislikes of certain items of clothing, like demin (yes, that’s right, I don’t wear denim; ever).  This isn’t to say that I will never indulge in the act of wearing an ugly Christmas sweater, I am just saying that I will potentially go to exhaustive measures to avoid wearing one.  All the meanwhile still maintaining a rather festive spirit, as there is no season quite like the Christmas one.

So, you may ask, what are the alternatives to an ugly Christmas sweater?  Simple.  An unugly Christmas sweater.  Or a festive Christmas ensemble based around a sweater.  Take the ‘Christmas’ and take the ‘sweater’, you’ve still checked off 2 of the 3 words from ‘ugly Christmas sweater.’  Leave the ‘ugly’ at home.  Some will qualify that as a passing grade, others as failing.  but if you dislike wearing an ugly Christmas sweater as much as I do you will be passing with honors.  Given my spotty academic career, I think this would only mark the second time I have ever done so.

what to wear to ugly christmas sweater party jay butler bit loafer corduroys

Perhaps this post is a few weeks late to the game, but there is still on weekend left of Christmas revelry.  A weekend that I tend to enjoy to the fullest.  For tonight’s ugly sweater party I have decided to don the pictured ensemble.  It is one of the more comfortable ensembles I have worn in recent memory.  It includes items from 4 of my favorite textile groups: cashmere, leather, velvet and corduroy.  Although biased, I think it is also a very elegant, masculine and festive pairing.  The red velvet jacket is from Buttons n Threads.  The ivory cashmere rollneck from Uniqlo (yes, Uniqlo actually has good knits for the money).  The green corduroys from Ralph Lauren.  And the brown bit loafers from Jay Butler.

velvet jacket turtleneck sweaterwhat to wear to ugly sweater party

What about you, are you a fan of ugly Christmas sweaters?  Or would you rather wear something like this?  Feel free to sound off in the comments.

-JLJ

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The Menswear Christmas Gift List Of 2014 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/mens-style/menswear-christmas-gift-guide-2014/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=menswear-christmas-gift-guide-2014 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/mens-style/menswear-christmas-gift-guide-2014/#comments Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:37:59 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=10660 If you are anything like me, you are just now starting to do your Christmas shopping.  As much as I vow to myself to get the task done in the earlier part of December, I almost always fail.  It can be frustrating.  But fortunately, as men, we no longer have to be slaves to the masses in the malls; we can browse and purchase online – or have the women in our lives do it for us. Christmas is a great time to ask for things that you would not ordinarily purchase for yourself.  By that I mean the more … Continue reading

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If you are anything like me, you are just now starting to do your Christmas shopping.  As much as I vow to myself to get the task done in the earlier part of December, I almost always fail.  It can be frustrating.  But fortunately, as men, we no longer have to be slaves to the masses in the malls; we can browse and purchase online – or have the women in our lives do it for us.

Christmas is a great time to ask for things that you would not ordinarily purchase for yourself.  By that I mean the more expensive and perhaps less practical things in life.  Like dress socks to set you back triple digits.  Or that velvet jacket you’ve always longed to acquire.  So in both that spirit, as well as a slightly more budget conscious one, I present a number of items that should make any well dressed man happy.

The guilty pleasure – Ralph Lauren American Flag Polo Bear Sweater, $245

rl flag bear sweater

Because your off the rack suits are so 2005 – Knot Standard, Black Lapel, Dragon Inside, $449 and up.

knot standard tweed jacket

The velvet jacket – Buttons n Threads, $399.

red velvet jacket

The everyday shoe – Jay Butler, $145-175.

jay butler clockwise

The suave dress shoe or boot – Cobbler Union, $395-475.

cobbler union louis boot

Now that you have the shoes, take care of them – J. Fitzpatrick, $9-60.

cream_polish_tower_2048x2048

The polo shirt – Kent Wang, $65-85.

kent wang green polo

The most practical tie that you don’t own, the grenadine tie – Chipp, $50.  David Fin, $85-105.

david fin grenadine necktie

You decided its time to dress your pocket – Jay Butler, $60-295.

jay butler crocodile leather card case wallets

Anything from Paul Stuart – Because it is the best of the best.

paul-stuart-custom

You have the tux, now you need the accessories to match – Fort Belvedere, $40-275.

fort belvedere black tie accessories

The headphones to block out the outside world – PSB, $299.

psb m4u2 headphones

The book to read because you like business – Zero To One, $16.

zero to one

The book to put on your coffee table because you like #menswear – Rowing Blazers, $48.

RowBlaze_Jkt_Jan12

The socks that close deals – William Abraham, $68-1,275.

william abraham socks

-JLJ

 

Note: None of the brands presented in this post provided any form of compensation for being listed.  They are here because they make great products.  As an additional disclosure, Jay Butler is my brand.

 

 

 

 

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Jay Butler Launches Shoe Collection http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/shoes/jay-butler-launches-shoe-collection/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=jay-butler-launches-shoe-collection http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/shoes/jay-butler-launches-shoe-collection/#comments Mon, 01 Dec 2014 17:47:59 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=10633 Dear Readers, As many of you know, I have been working tirelessly to start my own shoe brand, Jay Butler.  With great pride and excitement I would like to announce that the shoe collection is now available for sale.  The shoes are currently available for pre-order and will begin shipping out at the end of this week. The driving idea behind the collection is to provide men (and women) with a well styled, well priced and well made pair of shoes.  Long have I felt that there is a void for this type of footwear.  Particularly, that which is available … Continue reading

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Dear Readers,

As many of you know, I have been working tirelessly to start my own shoe brand, Jay Butler.  With great pride and excitement I would like to announce that the shoe collection is now available for sale.  The shoes are currently available for pre-order and will begin shipping out at the end of this week.

The driving idea behind the collection is to provide men (and women) with a well styled, well priced and well made pair of shoes.  Long have I felt that there is a void for this type of footwear.  Particularly, that which is available exclusively online; offered at a price lower than it would be for when sold in stores.  Personally, I have had trouble finding a middle ground between my boat shoes and dress loafers.  Both in terms of style and price.  Many of the offerings in the casual loafer space is either poorly designed or poorly made.  The leathers often seem a bit like plastic or the brand is trying to differentiate itself by adding pops of color and contrast; which often leads to a less than desirable product in my eyes.  The leathers I have selected for Jay Butler’s shoes are a nice mix between casual and dressy.  The smooth leather is full grain, it will last for years.  It has a nice smooth appearance with small showings of the natural grain of the leather, which I quite like.  It will also take to a polish well.  The suedes I have selected have a nice feel to them and are rich in color.  The designs are classic.  I would like to say, without sounding cliche, that the designs have been edited to work with today’s styles.  The silhouettes are sleek and elegant, yet they maintain an air of masculinity.

In review; there will be four styles of shoes; three of which will be leather soled and one rubber soled.  For the leather soled shoes there will be a tie loafer, the Shipley, and a penny loafer, the Cromwell, in sizes 4-14.  And a bit loafer, the Millbank, in sizes 7-14.  The shoes will be available in black, brown and caramel full grain leather as well as brown and navy blue suede.  Unfortunately, no shoes will be available in alligator leather, which you will see the penny loafer pictured in.  However, I do plan to do something in gator down the line.  The rubber soled shoe, the Naples, will be a more practical take on the classic Italian driving loafer.  The driving loafer will be available sizes 4-14 in brown and navy blue suedes and sizes 4-7.5 in purple and royal blue suedes.  Please note that not all available colors are pictured yet, the remaining colors will be up in the next few days.  The Cromwell, Naples and Shipley will be offered for $145 and the Millbank for $175, which includes shipping and returns.jay butler cromwell penny loafer brown ack basket

jay butler brown suede tie loafer top sample

jay butler royal blue driving loafer sample

 

Domestic shipping, returns and exchanges are free.  However, I have received numerous inquiries from some of my international readers asking if Jay Butler will be shipping internationally.  In short, the answer is yes.  The option to ship internationally will not be readily available on the Jay Butler website.  So interested parties should email Jay Butler directly at Help@JayButler.com with inquiries.  International shipping will be an additional $25 per pair; unfortunately the additional impost is necessary because of the greatly increased cost of shipping internationally.  Please note that this rate is also subject to change, if the cost is less than expected it will go down and if higher than expected it will increase.  Additionally, the customer is responsible for paying for all customs and importation fees.  So I recommend looking into possible fees regarding that matter.

jay butler brown full grain leather bit loafer side sample jay butler navy blue suede bit loafer sample7I9A0853 copy

If you would like see a bit more from Jay Butler please peruse the website, follow the Instagram, like the Facebook, follow the Twitter and sign up for the newsletter.

I would like to thank all of you for supporting The Fine Young Gentleman.  In appreciation of all of you, I would like to offer a 10% pre-order discount code that is good until midnight of this Friday (December 5th).  The code is FYGJB and can be input during the payment process, if you choose to place an order.  As I have said in the past, things here at FYG will continue as they have for the past few years, so I hope you all will continue to read and support the blog.  As well as help me make Jay Butler a household name.  If you have any questions, comments or thoughts please do not hesitate to voice them in the comments section below.  You may also always email me at Justin@TheFineYoungGentleman.com or Help@JayButler.com.  I am looking forward to good things to come, I hope you all are as well.

In Thanks,

Justin L. Jeffers

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Black Friday & Cyber Monday Menswear Sales http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/mens-style/black-friday-cyber-monday-menswear-sales-2014/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=black-friday-cyber-monday-menswear-sales-2014 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/mens-style/black-friday-cyber-monday-menswear-sales-2014/#comments Wed, 26 Nov 2014 16:14:59 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=10617 In less than 48 hours the irrationality (or some think rationality) of American consumers will be put on display for the world to see.  Of you can just refer to the image to the left.  Admittedly, Black Friday is not my favorite day of the year; neither is Cyber Monday for that matter.  But I do recognize that a deal is a deal.  And we all like a good deal, do we not?  So anyway, without further delay, here is a round up of a number of brands and stores holding sales (and a few others that are not doing … Continue reading

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In less than 48 hours the irrationality (or some think rationality) of American consumers will be put on display for the world to see.  Of you can just refer to the image to the left.  Admittedly, Black Friday is not my favorite day of the year; neither is Cyber Monday for that matter.  But I do recognize that a deal is a deal.  And we all like a good deal, do we not?  So anyway, without further delay, here is a round up of a number of brands and stores holding sales (and a few others that are not doing sales that I included because I like them).  The list is subject to change (and hopefully growth), so please keep checking in.  Any questions or additions you’d like to make, sound off in the comments.

For a more user friendly and downloadable version click here.

-JLJ

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