The Fine Young Gentleman http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com Of matters concerning men's dress, fashion & style Wed, 23 Apr 2014 18:13:54 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.9 Matthew Aperry Custom Coat Review http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/outerwear/matthew-aperry-custom-coat-review/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=matthew-aperry-custom-coat-review http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/outerwear/matthew-aperry-custom-coat-review/#comments Wed, 23 Apr 2014 18:11:21 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=9822 I was again asked by Louis at Matthew Aperry to do a review of their garments.  If you will remember, the first time I wrote about a linen suit, which I concluded that although not great; was a good value for the money.  As a refresher on the brand, Matthew Aperry is a smaller and newer brand out of Hong Kong that strives to deliver custom suits at a very low price; the lowest I have reviewed to date at $199-299. Their website could use a good overhaul, so try not to judge them too hard on that. This time … Continue reading

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I was again asked by Louis at Matthew Aperry to do a review of their garments.  If you will remember, the first time I wrote about a linen suit, which I concluded that although not great; was a good value for the money.  As a refresher on the brand, Matthew Aperry is a smaller and newer brand out of Hong Kong that strives to deliver custom suits at a very low price; the lowest I have reviewed to date at $199-299. Their website could use a good overhaul, so try not to judge them too hard on that.

This time round Matthew Aperry asked that I review one of their coats.  Something I eagerly obliged, due largely in part to the fact that it would be the first piece of custom outerwear I would publish a review on (there is potentially another one on a Knot Standard coat coming).  Although I liked some of the fabrics that they had available I was curious to see if they had any that were not featured on the site.  Much to my delight they did, including this very red burgundy cashmere fabric.  So if you are interested in using Matthew Aperry for a suit or jacket, you may want to ask what ‘off menu’ fabrics and items they have.  This is a huge plus in my book.

matthew aperry custom jacket review

For the styling of the jacket I wanted to keep things very simple.  I also wanted to keep the jacket on the slimmer side.  I do not intend to wear it over a suit jacket or sports coat so I did not need to allow for extra room.  In effect, I wanted to keep this jacket as a more casual piece of outerwear; able to cover a business casual look (like pictured above) to a more casual look with chinos and loafers.  So far the jacket has fit the bill well.  Unfortunately, the season is all but over to wear such a jacket, but I am confident it will get some solid wear over the next few winter seasons.  So, let’s take a closer look at the coat.

matthew aperry custom overcoat review

We used the measurements from my suit (with a few minor alterations) for the coat.  The coat, as you see it is unaltered.  I am happy enough with the fit to keep it as is, I am actually quite happy with how it looks.  The only thing I may do is take a little out of the right body to accommodate for my lower right shoulder – you will see the rippling in the right side as a result.  But I would not expect Matthew Aperry (or any other sub $1,000 suit maker to accommodate for this).  The shoulders have a nice look to them and have a thin layer of padding.

matthew aperry custom overcoat review

The sleeves his at a nice point on the wrist.  You want your coat sleeves a little longer than shirt and jacket sleeves.

matthew aperry custom overcoat review

The coat looks nice from the rear.  Although the vent does not sit completely closed, it is not spread enough to bother me considering most of the time I will be walking which will cause the vent to open.

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Ideally, this should be a functioning boutonniere.  I am not sure why it is not, it just looks like an afterthought, poorly executed at that.

matthew aperry custom cashmere coat

The three buttons on the front of the jacket however are nicely made.  They are clean and even.  It is up in detail like this that you can get a good look at the fabric, which I am told is 100% cashmere.  Cashmere or not it does not have a great feel to it – more like a rough wool.  I suspect that using less expensive fabrics is where Matthew Aperry cuts its costs on its coats.

matthew aperry custom cashmere coat

I was very happy when I opened the box and saw that the buttons were a color to match the fabric.  The buttons would do well without the crackling lines in them, but I’ve gotten over that.  I am often not a fan of contrasting or off color buttons.  With the fabric I think the jacket looks best with buttons the same color as the fabric.

matthew aperry custom cashmere coat review

The stitching on the inside of the jacket was pretty clean all around.  See more below.

matthew aperry custom cashmere coat

All mine.

In summary, I am happy with the coat from Matthew Aperry.  It does have its flaws, primarily that the fabric being less than luxurious.  The construction is decent, but it is not as clean or solid feeling as Black Lapel or MyTailor; but then again, their garments cost more than Matthew Aperry’s.  It is crucial to realize what is reasonable to expect for what your are paying and in this case I think $279 is a fair price for what you are getting.  Which is a coat that you can heavily customize both the details of and the fabric of.  And in my case, a coat that looks very nice when worn.  If you have any questions, comments or thoughts of your own; please feel free to sound off in the comments.

-JLJ

 

Note: FYGblog did receive the coat being reviewed for the purpose of review.  As always, the utmost effort was taken to maintain an unbiased and fair stance on the product and brand at hand.

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Thank You To Our Sponsors http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/shopping-advice/thank-sponsors/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=thank-sponsors http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/shopping-advice/thank-sponsors/#comments Fri, 18 Apr 2014 13:44:39 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=9815 Every now and then I find it prudent to specifically highlight those brands that support this blog on a consistent basis.  You can find them on the right sidebar.  They represent brands that I have personal experience with and that I think very highly of.  But not just the brands and their products but the people behind them.  They are also brands that, if I did not receive items for review and sponsorship I would (and have in the past) spend my own money on the brands’ goods.  That said, I feel comfortable recommending each of the brands to you.  … Continue reading

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Every now and then I find it prudent to specifically highlight those brands that support this blog on a consistent basis.  You can find them on the right sidebar.  They represent brands that I have personal experience with and that I think very highly of.  But not just the brands and their products but the people behind them.  They are also brands that, if I did not receive items for review and sponsorship I would (and have in the past) spend my own money on the brands’ goods.  That said, I feel comfortable recommending each of the brands to you.  If you have any questions about any of them, please feel free to ask in the comments or email me at Justin@TheFineYoungGentleman.com.

MyTailor (known as Hemrajani Brothers in some circles) is my tailor of choice for more unique and exquisite suits and jackets (review here).  Like the tweed suit you see below (which cost around $1,400).  I think that the value they provide is exceptional – they can craft a near bespoke (or arguably bespoke) suit of reputable quality for around $1,000.

tweed prince of wales 3 piece suit

Suit: MyTailor. Shirt: Brooks Brothers. Tie: Chipp2. Pocket Square: Fine & Dandy Shop. Suspenders: Albert Thurston. Shoes: Meermin. Socks: Mazarin.

Cottonwork is my go-to shirt maker (review here).  They have an extensive fabric collection ($55-155) and have been able to meet every unique request I have had thus far; including monogram placement, collar point length, stitching color, horizontal stripes and more.  And not to mention they have a plethora of button options as well as 3 levels of collar and cuff stiffness.  I have around 30 shirts from CottonWork and they are my most worn shirts.

Horizontal Striped shirt

Shirt: CottonWork. Suit: MySuit. Suspenders: Albert Thurston. Tie: Arcuri (Linkson Jack).

Butler Luxury produces some of the, if not the, finest hangers that I have ever seen (review here).  I realize that it sounds absurd to spend $28 on a suit hanger.  But I can say that it is one of those things that once you start, you can’t stop.  The hangers not only do a great service to your suits but they also make your closet look infinitely better when compared to plastic and metal hangers.

Lastly, we have J. Fitzpatrick Footwear.  A review of the shoes is on the way ($420-600), in the meantime, you can check some photos I took of them here.  Over the past year the shoes have worn quite well and I would recommend them to anyone/everyone.  J. Fitzpatrick is the brainchild of fellow blogger Justin Fitzpatrick of The Shoe Snob

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What To Wear To A Baseball Game http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/accessories/what-to-wear-to-baseball-game/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=what-to-wear-to-baseball-game http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/accessories/what-to-wear-to-baseball-game/#comments Mon, 14 Apr 2014 14:26:46 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=9795 As far back as I can remember I have always loved playing sports.  Watching them, whether it be on TV or in person has always been a different story; but I won’t bore you with the details.  If I am going to a game I am also not much one to wear a jersey. Aside from the fact that I don’t really think the jerseys do much to flatter me, I can list about 100 things that would be a better investment of your money when it comes to your wardrobe.  More simply put, jerseys are just not my style.  … Continue reading

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As far back as I can remember I have always loved playing sports.  Watching them, whether it be on TV or in person has always been a different story; but I won’t bore you with the details.  If I am going to a game I am also not much one to wear a jersey.

Aside from the fact that I don’t really think the jerseys do much to flatter me, I can list about 100 things that would be a better investment of your money when it comes to your wardrobe.  More simply put, jerseys are just not my style.  Some of you will likely comment that this is me being pretentious, I view it more as me knowing my limits.  Either way, I realize that I am in the small minority of people who think this way; as per usual.  And I am by no means trying to tell people that they shouldn’t wear jerseys.  My purpose is to propose an alternative to doing so while still supporting your team.  So then, what do I wear to a baseball game?

what to wear to a baseball game

Shirt: Luxire.  Pants: J. Crew Factory.  Shoes: Jay Butler.  Belt: Tucker Blair.  Hat: Mount Gay.

I prefer to take a somewhat understated approach to dressing for games.  I am all for supporting whatever team it is I am rooting for so I think the key is to work in the team colors to the ensemble.  In this case I was going to a Phillies game so the primary colors to weave in were red and white followed by blue.  If I were going to an Eagles game then the primary color would be Eagles green, or for the flyers it would be orange.  You get the idea…

what to wear to a baseball game

To do so I wore a white shirt with a red belt and red hat.  It seemed to work out nicely.  All the while keeping things understated and flexible.  As an alternative I could’ve worn a red or blue shirt, but I felt like being boring.  Perhaps most importantly, however, my Figawi hat reminded me what spring and summer are really about: that little island in the sun.  And no, I am not talking about Barbados.

What do you wear to a baseball game?

what to wear to a baseball game

-JLJ

 

PS – If you find yourself at a Phillies game I recommend you indulge in a Schmitter, the heavenly sandwich pictured above.

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The Buttons ‘n’ Threads Jacket Review http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/black-tie/buttons-n-threads-velvet-jacket-review/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=buttons-n-threads-velvet-jacket-review http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/black-tie/buttons-n-threads-velvet-jacket-review/#comments Wed, 09 Apr 2014 19:32:18 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=9774 To say I have been longing for a velvet jacket would be a gross understatement.   It is one of those things that I have been wanting to acquire since I got into this whole ‘menswear’ thing.  But I could not justify the cost of one and none of the brands that have asked me to do reviews of them worked in velvet.  But finally, my prayers have been answered and the menswear god(s) decided to shine some good fortune upon me. Enter Buttons ‘n’ Threads.  An upstart online made to measure brand based in Australia with its production in New … Continue reading

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To say I have been longing for a velvet jacket would be a gross understatement.   It is one of those things that I have been wanting to acquire since I got into this whole ‘menswear’ thing.  But I could not justify the cost of one and none of the brands that have asked me to do reviews of them worked in velvet.  But finally, my prayers have been answered and the menswear god(s) decided to shine some good fortune upon me.

Enter Buttons ‘n’ Threads.  An upstart online made to measure brand based in Australia with its production in New Delhi, India.  Perhaps most importantly for my wardrobe, they have a nice burgundy velvet on offer ($349).  Buttons ‘n’ Threads was started by Yashas Alur and Sanchit Baweja, the two gentlemen met while in school in Australia and quickly connected on their common interest in menswear.  Which bloomed into creating Buttons ‘n’ Threads.

buttons n threads custom suit review

It is important to note that this jacket is not exactly a smoking jacket or a dinner jacket in the most traditional and strict senses.  And I did not want it to be such.  I wanted the jacket to be able to serve as both a dinner jacket as well as a less formal jacket to be worn to cocktail parties and dinners.  Which is why I kept the lapels velvet and not satin or grosgrain; and I should note, this is how Buttons ‘n’ Threads has the jacket on their site.

The website itself is pretty par for the course in the online custom suit world.  The ordering and customization processes are both simple and straightforward.  The measurement process is also on par with the rest of the market.

buttons n threads custom suit review

A less formal look with a gray wool knit tie.

In an effort to keep the jacket formal and steamlined I opted for the following details:  1 button front, peak lapels, slanted (hacking) pockets, side vents, functioning straight boutonniere, functioning sleeve buttons (at Yashas’ insistence), flower loop, velvet buttons and a maroon lining.  I also specifically requested 3.75″ lapels, as Buttons ‘n’ Threads’ normal lapels are on the slim side.  The wider lapels really make the jacket in this case.  Lastly, I requested a slightly lower than normal button stance and higher than normal gorge.  Fortunately, Buttons ‘n’ Threads met all but one of my requests perfectly.

velvet jacket and cheesesteak

One can never be overdressed for a cheesesteak.

So, what about the rest of the jacket?

buttons n threads custom suit review

To be honest, I was not expecting the jacket to come out as good as it did.  Like many online custom suit sites, the fit of the suits and the styling of the models leaves a bit to be desired.  I was very impressed that the jacket fit like this out of the box.  The only thing I may do is shorten the sleeves 1/4″, I have debated taking in the stomach a little bit but I think given the weight of the fabric I would rather wear it in a not so snug way.  The shoulders and chest of the jacket fit quite well and the balance of the button and peaks is excellent.

buttons n threads custom suit review

There is a little extra fabric in the back, which is fine, it allows for movement of the arms.

buttons n threads custom suit review

The jacket is clean from the side.

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The shape of the peak is nice.  However, the crease in the middle is unnecessary.  The lapel would also be much better served by a straight lapel button hole, which is what I requested, as opposed to a keyhole shaped one.  Upon speaking with Yashas we identified the root of the problem so I would not expect it to happen again.  He also offered to have it fixed but I did not think it was worth the time and expense.  The fabric itself is very soft to the touch and is a bright burgundy, closer to a deep red.

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The button hole on the front is clean.  I love the velvet covered buttons, I think they are exceptionally elegant.

custom velvet jacket

Sorry this one is a little blurry.  The breast pocket is neither good nor bad.  It serves its purpose and looks presentable.

custom velvet jacket

Machine stitched at the sleeve head, I prefer to see some hand stitching here as it allows for a little more stretch and movement.  But clean work nonetheless.

custom velvet jacket

The stitching along the border of the lining is even and clean.  Although I am not usually a fan of patterned liners this evolution one caught my eye and I am glad that I selected it.

custom velvet jacket

The flower loop on the underside of the lapel is a great touch.  I would prefer to see the velvet fabric from the collar folded over to underneath the collar though.

custom velvet jacket

I am glad that Yashas encouraged me to go for functioning sleeve buttons.  The stitching is clean.  And again, the velvet covered buttons – beautiful.

In conclusion I am very happy with the jacket.  Partly because I was finally able to acquire a velvet jacket and partly because it is a solid jacket for the money.  I should note that I cannot speak on the quality of their pants or suiting fabric because we decided to only do a jacket for this review.  But there are really not many things to fault this jacket for.  The construction and fabric are both good for the money.  But more importantly, Buttons ‘n’ Threads did a great job with the fit.  So check them out if you are in the market.  If you have any questions, comments or experience of your own with Buttons ‘n’ Threads, please feel free to sound off in the comments.

-JLJ

 

Note: FYGblog did receive the jacket being reviewed for purpose of review.  As always, the utmost care is taken to maintain and unbiased and honest perspective on the brand and its products.

 

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The Point Click Tailor Suit Review http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/suits/point-click-tailor-suit-review/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=point-click-tailor-suit-review http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/suits/point-click-tailor-suit-review/#comments Sun, 06 Apr 2014 21:54:03 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=9745 The bar is being continually raised in the online made to measure/custom suit market.  New entrants have less room for air than they did one and two years ago.  Customer service has to be attentive and effective, delivery has to be prompt, websites have to be easy to use and the suits have to be at least reasonably well made and fit well.  For a new company or for someone just getting into the business keeping all of this in line can be daunting.  And as you can imagine, some do it better than others. Fortunately, for Frank De Jackmo … Continue reading

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The bar is being continually raised in the online made to measure/custom suit market.  New entrants have less room for air than they did one and two years ago.  Customer service has to be attentive and effective, delivery has to be prompt, websites have to be easy to use and the suits have to be at least reasonably well made and fit well.  For a new company or for someone just getting into the business keeping all of this in line can be daunting.  And as you can imagine, some do it better than others.

Fortunately, for Frank De Jackmo of Point Click Tailor this is not all new to him.  Although Point Click Tailor is only a few months old, Frank has been in the business and working with his factory for a few years.  He cut his chops with Greywell Tailors doing in person fittings for clients in northern New Jersey and New York City.  Which in my opinion has given him an advantage over some of his peers.  As evidenced by the suit that he sent my way for review.

point click tailor custom suit

After talking on the phone Frank and I agree upon a review on a three piece suit.  If a company offers 3 piece suits I prefer to review those because it allows me to see how they handle all potential pieces of a suit.  Point Click Tailor’s suits range from $525-695.  I chose the medium blue pinstripe suit, the Bronx ($695).  The details for which are as follows:

Jacket: 2 button, peak lapel, hacking (slanted) pockets, side vents, Milanese lapel buttonhole, 1/3 lining, functioning sleeve buttons (at Frank’s request), 3.9″ lapel width, high gorge, half canvassed.

Vest: notch lapel, 5 button, lining for back fabric, 2 pockets.

Pants: no belt loops, side tabs, no cuffs, suspender buttons, no pleats, extended slide tab closure.

I should note that if you are ordering from Point Click Tailor and there are things you want to change or specify about your suit that are not available on the website you should email Frank at FDeJackmo@pointclicktailor.com.  As some things are available by request only.

The customization process on the site was pretty standard.  That is, easy to use and understand.  Options were plenty, thankfully.  Anyway, let’s get to it.

point click tailor custom suit review

First off, I apologize for the poor quality of the following few photos showing the fit of the suit.  Anyway, the fit through the shoulders is great and the range of motion is good.  Although the left sleeve seems short in this photo you will see below that it is of correct length.

point click tailor custom suit review

point click tailor custom suit review

Across the back the jacket fits well.  The pants do not look great in this photo, but look better below.  Both the jacket and pants are comfortable and not constricting.

point click tailor custom suit review

A vest is often hard to get right – the length and how it fits in the chest and stomach are paramount.  You will see here that the vest properly covers the shirt and waistband.  One of the biggest faux pas in tailored menswear is when these areas are not covered.

point click tailor custom suit review

With the vest off and the jacket buttoned you can see the shape of the jacket better.  I only had to have the chest taken in a little bit.  Although the shape and fit of the jacket are great, I asked for a high gorge, which I do not view as the case on this jacket.  I also would prefer a slightly lower buttoning point.

point click tailor custom suit review

The pants look better in this photo than above.  Note how the jacket properly covers my seat.

point click tailor custom suit review

Clean from the side.

point click tailor 3 piece suit

point click tailor custom suits

I have been a huge fan of lapeled vests the past year.  This one from Point Click Tailor fits the bill well.

point click tailor custom suits

I have, in the past, professed my love for Milanese lapel buttonholes.  I think they are one of the most elegant things in all of tailored menswear.  This one is clean and even and comes at no extra charge, even though it takes many times longer to make than a machine stitched buttonhole.

point click tailor custom suits

The buttonholes on the sleeves and front of the jacket are very clean.  The buttons are of a nice horn and not plastic, thankfully.

3 piece custom suit

I would prefer to see a flower loop on the underside of the lapel, but oh well.  It is nice to see the collar fabric folded to the underside of the collar.

3 piece custom suit

Pattern matching is on point for the breast pocket as well as the jacket pockets (not pictured).

3 piece custom suit

I was particularly impressed by the cleanliness of the unlined front and 1/3 back.  There were no stray threads and all of the stitching was even and things secure.

3 piece custom suit

Hand stitching around the sleevehead.

3 piece custom suit

The suspender buttons are the proper distance apart.  The rubber strip in the waistband can sometimes serve to limit shirt slippage.

3 piece custom suit

Cuffguards are always a nice touch.  I am convinced they add a little weight to the pants which helps a little with drape, but more importantly, they help protect the bottom of the pant from deterioration.

3 piece custom suit

When wearing suspenders some type of slide tab is almost obligatory.  Button close waist bands just don’t do it for my eyes.

3 piece custom suit

And my beloved side tabs.  Which although nice, they could’ve matched the pattern a little better by lining up the stripes.  As you may notice in many of the photos the color of the fabric is a little different, this and the photos of me wearing the suit are the most accurate representation of the color.  It is a nice medium blue, not so much of a blue and gray as in some of the photos.  Sorry for the confusion.

In summary, I am very happy with this suit.  It is certainly one of the best ‘first try’ suits I have had made.  Both in terms of fit and general quality.  The quality of fabric and construction of the suit are both on point for the price of the suit.

There were a few things where Frank suggested slight changes in my measurements based off of how his factory’s system works.  And he was right, thankfully.  Which is good to see, it means that he understands how his factory works.  Although I do wish the gorge was slightly higher and the buttoning point slightly lower.  I can’t really find anything to fault them on on the construction side of things though.

Do I recommend Point Click Tailor?  The answer to that is a resounding yes.  PCT was able to honor all of my requests (ie my high maintenance tendencies) well and with very little error.  I do wish they had a wider selection of fabrics, including some more seasonal offerings.  But PCT is certainly off to a good start and I Frank has told me they have some good things in store, which is always good to hear.  I look forward to watching the brand develop and mature.  If you are in the market for a suit, give their site a browse.  If you have any questions, comments or experience of your own with Point Click Tailor please feel free to sound off in the comments.

point click tailor suit

-JLJ

 

Note:  FYGblog did receive the suit being reviewed for the purpose of review.  As always, the utmost effort was taken to maintain and unbiased perspective on the brand and its product(s).

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FYGblog Hits YouTube With Style Advice http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/style-advice/fygblog-youtube-style-videos/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=fygblog-youtube-style-videos http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/style-advice/fygblog-youtube-style-videos/#comments Thu, 03 Apr 2014 17:09:46 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=9735 It is no secret that many people prefer watching something to reading it.  It is often an easier and more passive activity.  It is also becoming a larger part of blogging and online media, rightfully so. So to do our part, Savile Row Society and I got together up in NYC to shoot a couple short videos on my thoughts on various aspects of men’s style.  Savile Row Society, in short, is a new men’s personal styling service, which if that is something you are interested in give their website a look. Topics range from basic things your wardrobe should … Continue reading

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It is no secret that many people prefer watching something to reading it.  It is often an easier and more passive activity.  It is also becoming a larger part of blogging and online media, rightfully so.

So to do our part, Savile Row Society and I got together up in NYC to shoot a couple short videos on my thoughts on various aspects of men’s style.  Savile Row Society, in short, is a new men’s personal styling service, which if that is something you are interested in give their website a look.

Topics range from basic things your wardrobe should have to ideas on grooming, both things I don’t usually feel like writing about here on the blog.  There are 5 videos as of now, I imagine more will be published so keep checking back.  You can watch them below by letting them play though on the first video or go to Savile Row Society’s YouTube page.

Thanks to Lisa Dolan, founder and CEO of Savile Row Society for doing the interviewing and McNally Jackson Books (which is one of my favorite stops every time I am in NYC) for letting us film in their store.

-JLJ

 

PS – if you are at all curious what I am wearing in the videos: suit by A Suit That Fits, shirt from SockHopNY, vest from Uniqlo, tie from Paul Stuart, boots from L.L. Bean, scarf from Beretta and I am unsure of who made the jacket but it is an old Canadian military field jacket.

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Jos A. Bank via SNL http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/current-events/jos-a-bank-via-snl-commercial/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=jos-a-bank-via-snl-commercial http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/current-events/jos-a-bank-via-snl-commercial/#comments Tue, 01 Apr 2014 16:31:06 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=9728 It is no secret that Jos A. Bank (often referred to as Jose Bank in these pages) is the bane of many a well dressed man’s existence.  And for good reason, the brand peddles some ill fitting suits of poor construction.  It is concerning to see so many men wearing Jose Bank suits, but I hope that this blog has at least steered a few gents clear of the place. I remember that when I first had to start dressing for a corporate job (aka working for the man at Deloitte) I went through Jose Bank but thought I was … Continue reading

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It is no secret that Jos A. Bank (often referred to as Jose Bank in these pages) is the bane of many a well dressed man’s existence.  And for good reason, the brand peddles some ill fitting suits of poor construction.  It is concerning to see so many men wearing Jose Bank suits, but I hope that this blog has at least steered a few gents clear of the place.

I remember that when I first had to start dressing for a corporate job (aka working for the man at Deloitte) I went through Jose Bank but thought I was being led astray.  So I started reading, researching and refining my personal style.  Which, in part, is what led to the creation of this blog.

Anyway, SNL did a great commercial for the company.  Like it or not, you can’t deny that it is far from the mark.  Enjoy liberally.

-JLJ

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Things I Wear: Coyote Fur http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/casual/things-wear-coyote-fur/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=things-wear-coyote-fur http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/casual/things-wear-coyote-fur/#comments Sun, 30 Mar 2014 17:55:12 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=9716 About a year ago I briefly discussed my thoughts on wearing fur.  Something I am strongly in favor of.  However, I failed to provide examples of it being worn.  Although I have since included it in a post or two I don’t feel like fur has gotten adequate screen time. In my original piece on fur I said that I though it was best to work fur into your wardrobe by means of accessories and accents, which I still believe to be the case.  Start small and work your way up from there.  Case in point: a fur collar on … Continue reading

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About a year ago I briefly discussed my thoughts on wearing fur.  Something I am strongly in favor of.  However, I failed to provide examples of it being worn.  Although I have since included it in a post or two I don’t feel like fur has gotten adequate screen time.

In my original piece on fur I said that I though it was best to work fur into your wardrobe by means of accessories and accents, which I still believe to be the case.  Start small and work your way up from there.  Case in point: a fur collar on a jacket.  More specifically, a coyote fur collar on a coat.

coyote fur collar mens coat yigal azrouel

I am often heard referring to the coat as my ‘Ned Stark’ in honor of the fallen character from Game Of Thrones (season 4 can’t get here soon enough).  If you are familiar with the show you will have likely noticed that many of the characters, especially the men of the north wear animal pelts over their shoulders.  I think it is a very masculine and elegant look.

coyote fur collar mens coat yigal azrouel

Admittedly, I have had countless men walk up to me when wearing the coat.  Some try to buy it off of me, others ask where they can get their own and yet others tell me they wish they could wear something like it but know that they can’t.  Regarding the men in the latter category I agree with them.  Not all men can pull off something like this, but I do believe that every man is capable of wearing fur.  He just has to figure out how he can make it work for him and his style.  This is just how I made it work for my style.

The coat is from Yigal Azrouel and is a heavy black cotton twill and filled with some type of synthetic for warmth.  Which means that not only is it one of three black pieces of clothing I actually wear (the other two being a tuxedo and an overcoat) but it is also one of the few ‘designer’ pieces I own.  Which brings up an important secondary point.  When building your wardrobe and searching for your personal style you should be open to sourcing your clothing from a variety of sources – designers, tailors, mass market brands, discount houses, thrift stores etc.  You never know what you may find ay any of them.

It should be noted that the coat did not always exist in its current form.  When I purchased it it had a faux shearling collar on it.  I told the sales girl that I would only purchase the coat if she could send me to a furrier to get a proper fur collar for the coat.  And that has totally changed the dynamic of the coat for the better.

coyote fur collar mens coat yigal azrouel

Although pictured here with a very casual outfit, the coat has served me very well over a suit and tie.  It is a bit of a statement piece so it is best paired with a relatively simple ensemble like a tan chinos and white button up.

What are your thoughts?  Would you wear it?

coyote fur collar mens jacket yigal azrouel

Coat: Yigal Azrouel.  Pants: J. Crew.  Shoes: Jay Butler.  Shirt: CottonWork.  Sunglasses: Ray-Ban.  Belt: Jose Bank.

-JLJ

 

Note: FYGblog did not receive any material compensation from Yigal Azrouel or any associated party for being featured in this post.

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The Shoepassion Shoe Review http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/shoes/shoepassion-shoe-review/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=shoepassion-shoe-review http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/shoes/shoepassion-shoe-review/#comments Thu, 27 Mar 2014 19:00:54 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=9692 I think that it is no secret that the men’s dress shoe market is far better in Europe than it is here in the States.  This is due in large part to a proliferation of brands both old and new that sell well made and well designed shoes both online and off.  Of these brands is Shoepassion.  A German brand that has its shoe made in Spain and sells only through its website and store in Berlin. Shoepassion launched in February 2010 and was founded by Tim Keding and Henry Bokemeier, however, I have been in contact with Tobias Borner … Continue reading

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I think that it is no secret that the men’s dress shoe market is far better in Europe than it is here in the States.  This is due in large part to a proliferation of brands both old and new that sell well made and well designed shoes both online and off.  Of these brands is Shoepassion.  A German brand that has its shoe made in Spain and sells only through its website and store in Berlin.

Shoepassion launched in February 2010 and was founded by Tim Keding and Henry Bokemeier, however, I have been in contact with Tobias Borner who is Shoepassion’s PR and based on the idea of providing English style Goodyear welted dress shoes and boots at a lower price.  Shoepassion is able to maintain lower prices for its shoes relative to the market by selling directly to its customer, effectively cutting out wholesalers and other middlemen.

shoepassion shoe review

Shoes: Shoepassion.  Suit: MyTailor/Hemrajani Bros.  Shirt: Cottonwork.  Tie: Chipp2.  Bag: Beckett Simonon (review here).

I think it is easiest to categorize Shoepassion’s collection into two categories; conservative and contemporary.  Although they segment their collection into formal, contemporary, exotic (from which my shoe is from but there are other models in calf hair, python and ostrich) and boots.  There are shoes in all 4 collections that I do and don’t like.  I was particularly interested in some of the models from the exotic collection.  They have a few classic styles in exotic skins that really caught my eye.  So after some discussion, Tobias and I agreed that the No. 470 would be a suitable shoe for review (249euro or around $280 if you are outside the EU, you have to take off the 19% V.A.T.)  .  The No. 470is a brown deerskin wingtip (although the description says it is black, it is most certainly brown) and without sounding too childish, it’s pretty awesome.

shoepassion shoes

The first two things that struck me about the 470s was the texture of the deerskin and the shape of the last.  The deerskin is very very soft and has a wrinkled like texture; slightly akin to peddle grain cow leather.  Like pebble grain, it has a more casual appearance.  The last shape reminds me of some of the Alden and Allen Edmonds lasts.  It is a pretty voluminous last.  Both the heel and toe areas are wide, wider than I prefer, but that is a matter of personal taste.  I should note that I normally wear a UK9, however, with these shoes I wear a UK8.5.

shoepassion deerskin wingtip shoe

The lines of the shoe are exceptionally classic.  The pattern sits really well on the last, which is one of the first things I look at with any shoe.

shoepassion deerskin wingtip shoe

From the inside.  You can see the lining, which is a soft and smooth leather, nothing problematic with it.

shoepassion shoes

The shoe has 5 eyelets and as you can see it is a full brogue wingtip.

shoepassion shoes

The medallion on both feet sits evenly, which is important.  As you can see the stitching for the welting is even, as it should be.

shoepassion shoes

You can really see the texture of the deerskin here, I think it is beautiful.  Although it works well with really any fabric of pant, I have found that it looks particularly nice with heavier fabrics like flannel, tweed and corduroy.

shoepassion shoes

From this view you can again see the width and volume of the last.  You can also see that there is a lot of sole and welting protruding, which is a look that I like.  I really don’t like the protrusion on Alden and Allen Edmonds shoes.  The leather for the uppers is currently sourced from Italy, however, Tobias told me that some of it will soon be sourced from France.  The shoe is entirely sourced and produced in the EU, which is something Shoepassion takes pride in.

shoepassion deerskin wingtip shoe

Shoepassion sources its soles from Redenbach, which is a very well regarded sole and heel leather tannery from Germany.

shoepassion shoe review

Classic elegance.

In short these are some great shoes for the money (around $280 exl V.A.T.).  I cannot knock them at all on the quality, construction and finishing fronts.  The only complaints I have are that the last is a bit voluminous for my taste and that the shoes run a little large.  Which as long as you are okay with the former and know about the latter you shouldn’t have a problem with Shoepassion’s shoes.  That said, I can’t speak for some of the other lasts and models they have but I would imagine they are of equal quality.  So if you are in the market for some more classically styled dress shoes in the $300 price range I recommend you check out Shoepassion.

-JLJ

 

Note: FYGblog did receive the shoes being reviewed in exchange for this review.  As always, the utmost effort was taken to maintain an unbiased perspective on the product at hand.

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That Tweed Prince Of Wales Plaid Suit http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/suits/tweed-prince-wales-plaid-suit/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=tweed-prince-wales-plaid-suit http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/suits/tweed-prince-wales-plaid-suit/#comments Mon, 24 Mar 2014 21:18:38 +0000 http://www.thefineyounggentleman.com/?p=9677 If you all have not caught on yet, I often have a thing for some rather aggressive patterns and fabrics; especially in aggressive configurations.  Think Lilly Pulitzer vests and double breasted windowpane suits.  So going into my last visit with Joe from MyTailor.com/Hemrajani Bros I decided I wanted to get something in tweed, preferably a plaid. Little did I expect to find something so fit for the bill.  So bold and yet still tasteful.  So much a country/suburb fabric, but still wearable in the city if needed (or if I so desired).  And in colors that fit me. What I … Continue reading

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If you all have not caught on yet, I often have a thing for some rather aggressive patterns and fabrics; especially in aggressive configurations.  Think Lilly Pulitzer vests and double breasted windowpane suits.  So going into my last visit with Joe from MyTailor.com/Hemrajani Bros I decided I wanted to get something in tweed, preferably a plaid.

Little did I expect to find something so fit for the bill.  So bold and yet still tasteful.  So much a country/suburb fabric, but still wearable in the city if needed (or if I so desired).  And in colors that fit me.

tweed prince of wales 3 piece suit

What I found was this magnificent Prince of Wales plaid from Porter & Harding’s Glenroyal collection (430gms).  Joe and I decided to really push things and make the suit a three piece.  At Joe’s insistence we went for the double breasted vest with the keystone buttoning stance and angled bottom.  It is most certainly a vest style more at home with a city or business suit.  But I think it looks very nice here, but I may be biased.  I also opted for double forward pleats with a high English back and cuffs for the pants; which I think is a pretty traditional look.

tweed prince of wales 3 piece suit

I realize that most men would not wear this suit, with or without the vest.  It is simply too bold for most.  Perhaps more fitting for an odd jacket for some of you.  But regardless of what format you wear a fabric like this in it has to be done confidently, it has to fit and the rest of the ensemble has to pair well with it.  Because of the gravity of the fabric it will be the center point of any ensemble, it will simply overpower whatever it is near.

I have found the most success with mating the suit with a gingham shirt and solid tie.  In fact, I have only worn the suit with a solid tie; it really serves to ground the Prince of Wales plaid of the suit.  It’s that stability in an unstable world type of thing.  It’s good to have that sometimes.

tweed prince of wales 3 piece suit

Suit: MyTailor.  Shirt: Brooks Brothers.  Tie: Chipp2.  Pocket Square: Fine and Dandy Shop.  Suspenders: Albert Thurston.  Shoes: Meermin.  Socks: Mazarin.  Sunglasses: Warby Parker.

-JLJ

 

Note: FYGblog did not receive any type of compensation in exchange for producing this post.

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