How to wear a tuxedo? A simple enough question, right? The look is quite simple; some black here, some white there. But to appropriately and properly pull it off there are numerous variables that deserve consideration. Decisions have to be made on everything from shoes to collars.
As we all know, I am a fan of rules (but I am also a fan of breaking them). And as is the case in the Rules Of Men’s Dress, there are some rules in black tie that should not be broken and some that are free to be broken, in good taste of course. I receive countless inquiries from both friends and readers on how to wear a tuxedo so I feel it is prudent to centralize a list of basic and not so basic rules on how to wear a tuxedo. The list is by no mean comprehensive or complete, it will be added to as appropriate. But it should be sufficient to get any gentleman off to a suitable start. If you have any questions, comments or additions on the topic of how to wear a tuxedo; feel free to sound off in the comments.
1. Thou shall only wear a self tied bow tie. Long neck ties and pre-tied bow ties are perhaps the highest offense to black tie. In some circles they could be considered grounds for being shot on sight.
2. Thou shall avoid rental tuxedos as if they were the harbinger of death. Because, well, frankly they kind of are.
3. Tuxedo, black tie and dinner jacket are basically all just different names for the same thing. That said, they will be used interchangeably going forward.
4. Thou shall match the fabric of his bow tie to that of his lapels and stripe on his pants. But, for a bit of flair, a velvet bow tie can look great against satin or grosgrain lapels and pant stripes.
5. If thou is wearing a single breasted jacket a cummerbund, waistcoat or vest shall be worn. The primary concern is to conceal the bit of white shirting fabric between your jacket button and waistband.
6. Tuxedo/dinner jackets should only have one button when in single breasted form.
7. A tuxedo jacket/dinner jacket shall never have notch lapels. They are not formal enough for a proper tuxedo. Peak lapels and shawl collars are the only acceptable options, whether single or double breasted.
8. Thou shall wear a pocket square. White linen or cotton is ideal. Some gentlemen look dashing with a red or burgundy one, however.
9. Thou shall not match one’s tuxedo or associated accessories with the attire of his date. It does not matter what your date says, the purpose of your tuxedo is not to match or compliment her dress. Thou is meant to look stunning in one’s own right, changing one’s attire to suit her will only detract from the integrity of one’s tuxedo.
10. Midnight blue tuxedos are making a comeback. Although I normally eschew trends, I will say that midnight blue tuxedos are bad ass. Including the shawl collared one worn by Daniel Craig in Skyfall.
11. A pleated front shirt is not necessary. Although they are more formal and traditional, often times a man looks best in a button up shirt with a classic spread collar shirt and French cuffs.
12. Opera pumps (court shoes) are to be reserved for formal (white tie) attire. They are not appropriate for semi formal (black tie) attire.
13. Patent leather shoes are acceptable for black tie, however, they shall be in lace up and not loafer form.
14. If thou opts for calf skin shoes, they are to be well polished and free of brogues and medallions. Many say that a well polished black cap toe is the ideal shoe to wear with a tuxedo.
15. Belgian shoes and Prince Albert slippers are not appropriate at a club that you are not a member of/ do not have reciprocity at. It would be presumptuous and rude to wear them.
16. Belgian shoes and Prince Albert slippers are bad ass and the wearing of them is encouraged in appropriate settings like weddings and fundraisers.
17. Bit loafers can be worn with a tuxedo. The same rules apply as with Prince Albert slippers, however, bit loafers are a bit more snarky (understatement). And if you choose to wear them, do so wisely. For when worn inappropriately it can be quite an offense. It’s one of those ‘The first rule of Fight Club is you don’t talk about Fight Club’ type of things…
18. Thou can wear a club bow tie in place of a black bow tie, as long as thou is a member of said club and preferably if the event is at said club.
19. Thou can wear a button down shirt, however, the same statements apply as with bit loafers.
20. Needlepoint cummerbunds are badass.
21. Thou shall not wear a belt with a tuxedo. In fact, tuxedo pants should not have belt loops on them, ever.
22. Thou shall wear suspenders with a tuxedo. However, in the event that pants stay up without suspenders they are not necessary.
23. Thou shall not don pants with either cuffs or pleats with a tuxedo.
24. Velvet jackets, smoking jackets and jacket of colors other than black and midnight blue (including tartans) should be worn with caution. They are of a lesser formality than the two traditional options.
25. White or cream dinner jackets shall only be worn between memorial and labor days. Unless one is in a warm weather or tropical climate. They are not appropriate for cold weather falls and winters, like what we have here in the Northeast.
26. Solid black over the calf socks are the only appropriate hoisery for a man to wear with black tie. If one must change things up, black over the calf socks with clocks can also be deemed appropriate.
27. Studs are not necessary, however, they can look dashing. Gold, silver, mother of pearl, onyx are all suitable options.
28. White and black suspenders are the most traditional choices. However, they are an ideal medium for one to use to change things up a bit. The women seem to love pink suspenders…
29. Jacket pockets should be besom pockets, not flap pockets. If a jacket has flap pockets, they can often be tucked in the pockets to look like besom pockets.
30. Life is more fun in a tux.
31. Thou shall carry himself in a courteous and respectful manner. He shall also carry his liquor well.
32. Semi-formal dress means black tie. Formal dress means white tie. Know your dress code definitions. If you think the organizers of an event meant something else, do not be embarrassed to inquire; for it would be far more embarrassing to show up in the wrong attire.
I recently when to a formalwear rental and sales store to buy a tux. I bought a white tux and tux pants. Just wondering do i wear black shoes or white. I read and looked around and i seen some say black others white. If i recall the sales guy said white. What would be the best choice?
Hector,
Good question. I would vote for black shoes. They will tie in well with the black tie and cummerbund. I also think black shoes are really the only acceptable choice for formalwear, unless your wearing price albert slippers, then maybe you could have a little more fun.
-JLJ
Two comments/questions: A traditional semi-formal trouser is usually double pleated and meant to be worn higher at the natural waist; more modern cuts (which I personally don’t care for) are flat front an worn lower on the the hips. This makes coverage of one’s midsection with an evening waistcoat or cummerbund more challenging. And it should be noted that when one wears a cummerbund, the pleats should be upward-facing; an ideal place to stash one’s opera tickets, perhaps? – KF
Kevin,
I have never heard of double pleated semi formal (tux) trousers, nor would I ever wear such a thing. I do, however, love double front pleats on suit trousers. On the cummerbund, yes, a place to stash your opera/orchestra/other ticket. Conveniently, they will also serve to catch your crumbs sometimes, if you so happen to drop any.
-JLJ
Is it acceptable to wear a white tux jacket with black trousers? I heaven this style quite a lot recently, and I think it looks rather smashing.
Fernando,
In the summer months and/or in warmer/tropical climates it is certainly appropriate.
-JLJ
and what about the opposite, like this http://us.asos.com/ASOS-Slim-Fit-Tuxedo-Suit-Pants/zbg9s/?sgid=5480&xr=1&mk=na&r=3&mporgp=L1Byb2Qv
Dear Fineyounggentleman,
My son was accompanied by his father to the local mens store where they purchased a tuxedo for my son for prom. The tuxedo jacket is nice but I’m concerned that the pants
Have belt loops. Should he wear a belt or should I get him a cumberbund, which I really dont like. What to do, what to do. Please offer some advice. Kimberley
Kimberley,
A good question. Whatever he does, do not let him wear a belt. The ideal move would be to remove the belt loops altogether, as they have no place on tux pants. If no suspender buttons are present, sew them onto the pants and have him use suspenders. Do not have him wear clip on suspenders, only button on. Lastly, have him wear a cummerbund, they cover up the waistband and make for a much more elegant appearance. These are all things that should not be strayed from, in my opinion. Please let me know if you have any other questions, hope this helps.
-JLJ
My son’s prom date is wearing a red dress. What complimentary tux should he wear? Black with red accents? Or gray?
Shelley,
Personally, if you are set on coordinating with the date I would go for a black tux and red pocket square, of boutonniere. I wouldn’t really go for making anything else red. But then again, I am not a big fan or having anything on a mans tux coordinate with his date’s dress. A man in a tux is elegant in his own right.
-JLJ
Very helpful info. Fortuitous myself I came across your web blog accidentally, and i am stunned why this twist of fate don’t came into being before! My partner and i added that.
1. Cummerbund or vest?
2. Is rule #4 Not to be broken or free to break? I have a smooth satin lapel and stripe on tux but I just bought a satin tie with ribbed texture.