How To Wear/Not Wear A Tuxedo: Courtesy Of The Golden Globes

How To Wear/Not Wear A Tuxedo: Courtesy Of The Golden Globes

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It’s been a while since I’ve done some celebrity critiquing and a few of you have called me out on it.  So, back by popular demand is a critique of the men’s style at the 2017 Golden Globes.  I should say that I did not watch the televised event so I have certainly missed some ensembles so I am going to work with the photos that I was able to pull from a few places.

As a general note, I will say that over the past few years I think the men have been progressively dressing a little better, this year’s Golden Globes are definitely a high point.  There is still a ways to go, but all is not lost.  Some of the gentlemen took some aggressive style risks, while others did not.  When deciding for yourself what to wear to a black tie event, keep in mind that no man ever looked bad in a well fitting tuxedo; provided said tuxedo had peak lapels or a shawl collar, was worn with a cummerbund or waistcoat and was worn with a black self-tied bow tie.

Above you will see Pharrell.  Pharrell always like to push the boundaries and make a splash.  Sometimes it works out and other times it does not.  This would definitely be a case of the latter.  I actually like the fabric of the jacket, although I am not big on its cut.  The long tie is an unfortunate look, the chain is unnecessary but it is the beanie that is perhaps the worst offense.

rami malek golden globesHands down, Rami Malek is one of the best dressed men of the night.  My only fear is that the bow tie is a pre-tied one.  But the waistcoat is a great cut and the suit fits him well.  Note the thick satin laces on the shoes, a nice touch.  I believe the ensemble is Dior Homme.

tom-ford-golden globes 2017Always one of the best dressed men at any events he attends, Tom Ford did not disappoint this time.  Although I do not understand why the cuffs on his shirt are a little to long and the shirt sleeves too short.  Everything else is near perfect.  The double breasted jacket is excellent.  Substantial lapels, besom pockets and gauntlet cuffs.

ryan-reynolds-golden globes 2017Lady, check.  Pocket square, check.  Well fitting tux, check.  As has been noted on this blog many times in the past, flapped pockets on the jacket are a no-go on dinner jackets and tuxedos.  They are a less formal option compared to besom pockets and it is my opinion that they do not have a place on a more formal jacket that is intended for black tie wear.

golden globes stranger things tuxedoLike many people I was taken by Stranger Things this fall.  A large part of the shows success is due to the strong performances of its cast; mainly these four guys.  They do the whole black tie thing pretty well.  I’m not going to be the schoolyard bully and pick on the little guys, going to focus solely on guys bigger than me.

golden-globes-mens-style-donald gloverLike Donald Glover.  Who is wearing a beautiful brown velvet SUIT.  He has gotten a lot of mentions and props for his look at the Golden Globes because it stood out and was something aggressive and different.  However, this is NOT a tuxedo, nor is it an ensemble suited for a black tie event.  I have no problem with a brown velvet jacket being worn as a dinner jacket.  However, it should have one button, not two; it should have peak lapels and not notch and the pockets should not be flapped.  Mr. Glover should also be wearing a black bow tie, not a burgundy one.  And of course a cummerbund to cover the waistline.

Now, if we are to analyze the ensemble outside the context of black tie, it is an exceptional one.  The suit fits very well, the fabric is beautiful and the color of the suit pairs very well with his complexion.

chris-pine-golden globes 2017Back to the well dressed…  Chris Pine is putting on a clinic in the double breasted tuxedo from Giorgio Armani.  The fit is spot on, the bow tie is self tied and he finished it off with a pocket square.  Note the pinky ring.

Pictured-Dax-ShepardSo much bad here.  But let’s focus on the necktie.  Never, ever, ever wear a long necktie for black tie.  Ever.

mahershala ali golden globesYou know what you don’t see a lot of at the Golden Globes?  Winged collars.  They are the more formal and more traditional collar for black tie affairs and almost always paired with pleating on the chest of the shirt.  Add a pocket square and tuck the pocket flaps into the pockets and you have a great look Mr. Ali.  The shoes look to be black velvet or suede, which I think is a nice way to change up the texture of your footwear from the more common patent leather or shined calf leather; strong play.

nikolaj-coster-waldau-golden globes 2017 isaiaAside from notch lapels on a dinner jacket and long neckties, I think I would have to say my biggest peeve for black tie is not cover the waist.  It is simple, a cummerbund or a waistcoat (not a vest) will do the truck well.  To cover up that unsightly triangle of white fabric between the top of the waistband and jacket button would take this look from a 6 to a 9.5.  To exacerbate the problem, the pants are cut with too short of a rise.  Tuxedo pants should have a longer rise so that they sit higher on the waist (really all suit pants should, but we rarely see this these days because of the unfortunate trend of low slung pants).

aaron-taylor-johnson-golden globes 2017The velvet jacket trend that was so strong a few seasons ago at celebrity awards shows seems to have calmed down, which is neither good nor bad; velvet jackets, when worn well, are at the pinnacle of masculine elegance.  That said, Aaron Taylor Johnson is absolutely spot on with this ensemble.  A little shirt cuff, a subtle black leather strap watch, excellent fit of the jacket and trousers and well tied bow tie.  I believe he is dresed by Tom Ford.  He is tied as best dressed for the night.

milo ventimiglia golden globesThe other gentleman sharing the title with Mr. Johnson is Milo Ventimiglia.  Who is dressed in Ralph Lauren (Purple Label if I had to guess).  The fit of the tux is soid, the bow tie is self tied with a little personality and a healthy amount of shirt cuff showing.  He also pulls off the shawl collar and midnight blue better than most.  I cannot say conclusively whether or not he is wearing a cummerbund, but we do not see a swath of white shirt fabric between waistband and jacket button.  Well done sir.

golden-globes-mens-style-ryan goslingRyan Gosling, so close.  I’m slowly coming to the conclusion that this guy doesn’t do a lot of things poorly.  He’s a closer.  Sure, he should be wearing a cummerbund and the pockets on the jacket are flapped; but it’s also hard to stay mad at Ryan Gosling, the same Ryan Gosling who is the source of endless ‘hey girl’ memes and inception t-shirts with Macaulay Culkin.

Thankfully for all of us, the quality of men’s dress at the celebrity shows is on the upswing.  But we will see what the Academy Awards has in store for us in February to conclude fully on this matter.  What do you think?  Are these gentlemen well dressed or are the abominations?  Feel free to sound off in the comments.

-JLJ

 

Image sources:

http://www.instyle.com/awards-events/red-carpet/golden-globes/2017-dapper-mens-fashion#1640653

http://fashionista.com/2017/01/golden-globes-best-dressed-men-2017#&gid=ci02005ad2800127ca&pid=gettyimages-631240512jpg

http://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/news/g3190/best-dressed-men-golden-globe-awards/

http://www.popsugar.com/celebrity/Hot-Guys-2017-Golden-Globe-Awards-42960802#photo-42961713

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