Rules of Men’s Dress

All style is relative.  Some people will disagree with what this blog dictates is good style, and this blog would most likely disagree with them on what they think is good style.  As you can imagine, this results in a situation in which there is no single list of men’s dress rules that are comprehensive and absolute.  The following are a set of rules that The Fine Young Gentleman stands by.  There are some rules that are immutable, such as the one that a man should match the metal of the bit on his loafer with the buckle on his belt with the metal on his suspenders with the buttons on his blazer with the metal of his cufflinks.  Then there are some rules that have exceptions, such as the rule that a man’s socks should match the color of his pants.  The Fine Young Gentleman’s rules are derived from a variety of sources including tradition, classic rules of men’s dress, common sense and personal taste.

1.      Thou shall match the metal of the bit on his loafers, belt buckle, suspenders, blazer buttons and cufflinks.

2.      Thou need not match the metal on his watch with the other metals he is wearing, however, it is preferable.

3.      Thou can wear black shoes with a navy suit/pants.

4.      Thou shall only wear black, brown or oxblood (burgundy) leather shoes for business dress.  The only exceptions allowed are white bucks.  Blue, green or any other colored shoes are inappropriate.

5.     White bucks are badass.

6.     Thou shall match the color of his socks with the color of his pants.  As an exception, socks can be matched to something worn above the waist such as a man’s shirt, tie, pocket square or suspenders (braces in the UK).

7.     Thou shall match the color of his belt to that of his shoes.  This holds true in all situations except when wearing white bucks.

8.     Thou need not match the leather on his watchband with that of his shoes and belt, however, it is preferable.

9.     Thou shall wear a belt when wearing pants with belt loops.

10.  Thou shall never, ever, ever use their belt to hold accessories like beepers, phones, Blackberrys, ID tags and/or keys.

11.  If pants do not have belt loops they should have side tabs and/or  buttons for use with suspenders (braces).

12.  Thou shall never wear a tie and pocket square of the same pattern.  The sports commentators who do so look like fools.

13.  Thou shall not wear a French cuff (double cuff) shirt without a jacket.

14.  Thou shall always doubt salespeople and in-store tailors opinions on fashion, style and fit. The stores they work for pay them, not you.  Their motives are to sell products to who will buy them, not necessarily to who will look best in them.

15.  Thou shall not wear slip on shoes with a suit.  In fact, they should be avoided.

16.  Thou can wear loafers with a suit, however, this is mostly practiced in America.

17.  Loafers are badass, especially those with bits or tassels.

18.  Thou shall not wear flat toe/square toe shoes.  They should be avoided like the plague.  They are cancerous to a man’s wardrobe.  They are aesthetically offensive.  Their sole purpose lies in showing men what not to wear.  Money spent on these would have been better spent on Enron stock circa June 2000.

19.  Thou shall only wear patent leather shoes for black tie (semi-formal) and white-tie (formal) occasions.  Patent leather is never acceptable to be worn in a dress or causal setting.

20.  Thou shall never wear a long necktie for a semi-formal (black tie) affair, even if that tie is solid black.

21.  Thou can wear brown suede shoes for business dress.  They are elegant and gentlemanly.

22.  Brown suede shoes are badass.

23.  Thou shall not wear Chesterfield coats, which are typically signified by a velvet collar, with anything of less formality than a suit.  They should not be worn with business casual attire.

24.  Thou shall not wear a tie without a jacket.  If done so, he will run the risk of looking like a waiter at TGI Fridays.

25.  Thou shall not wear suspenders (braces) without a jacket.  Sorry hipsters.

26.  Thou shall only wear suspenders (braces) that utilize buttons, not clips.  Again, sorry hipsters.

27.  Thou shall not wear a crew neck undershirt when the top button of a shirt is left unbuttoned.  When leaving the top button unbuttoned thou shall wear a v-neck undershirt as The Dude does.  The Dude abides.

28.  Thou can wear brown suits for business dress.

29.  Thou shall only wear shirts with white collars and white cuffs with a jacket.  These shirts should not be part of a business casual wardrobe, that is, one where suits are not utilized.

30.  Thou shall leave the bottom button of vest (waistcoat) unbuttoned.  Except when wearing a double breasted or flat bottomed vest, in which case the bottom button should remain buttoned.

31.  Thou should iron the collar of a shirt before wearing it.  Creased collars caused by dry cleaning and hanging do not follow the natural circularity of one’s neck.

32.  Thou shall utilize a pocket square when wearing a jacket.

33.  Pocket squares are underrated, underutilized and most importantly they are badass.

34.  Thou shall not wear a back pack/book bag when in business dress, especially when in a suit.  Book bags are reserved for casual wear and students.

35.  Thou shall not wear a shirt with any type of logo on it in a business setting, including when in business casual dress.  These shirts should be reserved for casual wear.

36.  Thou shall wear a tie bar at a slant, not horizontal.

37.  Off color shirts with a white collar should have French (double) cuffs, regardless of whether of not the cuffs are white or the same color or pattern as the shirt.

38.  Life is more fun in a tuxedo (dinner jacket).

39. Thou shall never button all three buttons of a three button jacket. Sometimes the top, always the middle and never ever ever the bottom.

40.  Thou shall wear over the calf socks as opposed to crew socks whenever possible.  For they are far superior in both form and function.

41.  Thou shall not wear a solid black suit for business or professional activities.  Save it for formal events and funerals.

42.  Style is a state of mind.

43.  It is impossible for a man to be considered well dressed if his shoes are in poor taste or of noticeably poor quality.  For any good ensemble is built on a fine pair of shoes.

44.  Thou shall not wear sport sunglasses with a suit.  It’s like wearing socks with sandals; everyone else knows its wrong, why don’t you?

45.  Thou shall not wear a sports watch with a suit.  It would be like playing lacrosse in dress shoes, and no one wants to see that.

46.  There should be no presence of logo or branding when wearing a suit.  For example, do not wear a Polo shirt with the Polo logo on it under a suit jacket or a Burberry tie with the Burberry tartan (although the scarfs are fine).  The emphasis of a suit should be the fit, not the brands it is worn with.

47.  It is better to be overdressed than underdressed.

48.  A man need not an excuse to wear a tie or jacket.  In other words, a man need not an excuse to dress up.  Despite the fact that in today’s society it seems he does need one.


Comments

Rules of Men’s Dress — 56 Comments

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  2. 13. My father still points to this rule, but I find it to be a little dated. The practice of wearing FC shirts without a jacket is very common amongst well-dressed gentlemen these days, especially in Europe. When subtle links are used, it seems to work, when someone douche is wearing large cufflinks, a gold chain and has two top buttons unbuttoned, it is a different story.
    16. I don’t agree with this at all. Loafers are casual shoes, even Gucci bits, etc. are not appropriate with suits. This is an unfortunate trend that was uber popular in the late 80’s on wall street.

  3. I’m trying to make the switch from belts to suspenders. However, buying a different set of suspenders for every color tie I have seems like an exceedingly expensive proposition. I’m wondering if black suspenders (worn with a black suit) can be worn with any color tie?

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  5. Joe,
    First, an admirable thing switching from belts to suspenders, an understandable dilemma you ask about. A different set of suspenders is not needed for each color tie, you should be able to get by safely with a few basic colors. I would recommend starting with navy and burgundy; between the two of them you can match or compliment most color ties, they will also mesh well with almost any color suit. I would shy away from black, as I am of the belief that black suspenders should be reserved for semi formal and formal wear; but obviously it is up to you.
    Regards,
    FYG

  6. Pingback: Shirting: The Cuffs | The Fine Young Gentleman

  7. Thou shall not button all 3 buttons on a 3 button suit jacket or sport coat . The top button alone is fashionable if not a bit fashion forward. Buttoning the first and second buttons are fashionable yet conservative. Buttoning the middle button is always in conservatively good taste, especially in a mixed group of fashion frustrated folks.
    Fastening all three buttons is a fashion fatality on the order of a bald man attempting to hide the obvious with a comb over. No one is fooled and everyone but the blind or ignorant notice the tasteless error.

  8. Is it common to wear a tie bar at a slant? I have never seen anyone wear a tie bar at a slant. I think it would look rather odd to wear a tie bar like this. Thoughts?

    • Kim,
      I don’t find it to be common at all, most men do wear theirs flat (not on a slant). I am guessing the reason is that that is how they see their peers wearing tie bars, but the masses are not always right. I also think rationality would make one think to wear it flat. But, style is not always rational…
      One of the ideas behind wearing it at a slant is to create a more vertical, not a horizontal line. For horizontal lines (tie bar worn flat) tend to visually widen things whereas in contrast diagonal (tie bar at a slant) and vertical lines tend to heighten. Flatly placed tie bars also seem to clash more with necktie designs, as most seem to have some type of diagonal, as opposed to horizontal, line in them.

  9. Your statements are often mis-directed. The fact that you have so many rules means none of this is second nature to you and you try far too hard.

    No gentleman uses the term ‘badass’ either. You are a little too jumped up and eager to be a gentleman.

    Ben,

    London

    • Ben,

      Thanks for your feedback, I appreciate you taking the time to voice your opinion. The rules I put forth are meant as safe guidelines on how to dress well. The rules are not necessarily for me or the blog, but for the readers, such as yourself. But my intent is not to insult readers by listing a set of rules. For some readers may have little knowledge of men’s dress, whereas others may have much more knowledge. But as they say, rules are made to be broken. And I often break some of these rules and at times try to get others to do so with me.

      And regarding my usage of ‘badass.’ It will continue even though it may not be the most gentlemanly word (but then again, I am not professing to be the ideal gentleman, only how to dress well). Lastly, London is a great city, I envy you for living there.

      Regards.

    • But if you were raised properly these rules should be second nature. I grew up with them over 50 years ago. It seems today parents are to relaxed with dress attire and this attitude is, unfortunately, passed onto their children.

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  12. Yes, and you know how relatives can be. But some rules do rule more then other rules. And, one of those is in regard to what should be the proper length of a man’s pants.

  13. What does it mean by “Thou shall only wear shirts with white collars and white cuffs with a jacket. These shirts should not be part of a business casual wardrobe.” – Rule 29

    Sounds to me like I’m only allowed to wear white shirts.

        • Andrew,
          This rule only applies when the collar and cuffs are of a contrasting white. ie, the body of the shirt is not white. The reason being the formality of a contrasting collar/cuff shirt is only appropriate when worn with a jacket, it is to formal of a shirt to be worn without one. Hope this helps.
          Justin

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    • Eric,
      I think a few safe bets are surcingle, grosgrain ribbon or needlepoint belts for a more casual look. I have also found success in matching the color of my belt with the sole of my white bucks, which is a tan; it seems to tie things together well. I would not however, recommend wearing a white suede belt to match the shoes.
      -Justin

    • “Slacks” are what women wear. Maybe you are a female, and that is fine, of course. I just assumed that you are male. Men wear trousers. Yes, men also wear hosiery. Some are not aware of this, but in fine men’s stores, “socks” do not exist. (they are sold in sporting goods stores.) I worked at Brooks on Madison Ave in the 80′s while in college. (yes, back when Brooks was actually high quality.)

  15. Some definitions would be helpful. Also cuffs on pants when, only on double pleats? Single pleats, plain front pants? What about button down collars, only with a sport coat, never with a suit? Wingtip shoes? What can one wear them with? Plain front suit pants? No cuffs, what about those specifics? Are you saying you are only to wear a white shirt with a suit while you wear a jacket? Compare business attire with lawyer attire, this is why I need some definitions, are they the same? And those loafers with tassels are almost as bad as the flat square toed shoes you dislike. Tassels are not kick ass but The Dude is. Thanks I like your site.

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  22. Pingback: Rules of Men’s Dress | The Soul of a Shark

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  24. Pingback: Parisian Gentleman – Socks – Necessity or Accessory?

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  27. I was wondering, would it be a completely bad thing to wear burgundy wingtips with a tuxedo? I have a pair of drab SAS black work shoes I can polish up, but I think the wingtips are much nicer.

    • Chris,
      My thoughts are that burgundy wingtips would be quite inappropriate to wear with a tux (and I love burgundy wingtips). Actually, the wingtip part may be more of a faux pas then the burgundy part.
      -JLJ

  28. Have you ever thought about adding a little bit more than just your
    articles? I mean, what you say is important and all.
    But imagine if you added some great photos or video clips to give
    your posts more, “pop”! Your content is excellent but with images and videos, this blog could definitely be one of the greatest in its niche.
    Superb blog!

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  30. Hello there,FyG,i’m Kenneth,and i’m new to your site;however,i would like to know the guide to a man carrying keys,and cell phones since the rules don’t permit to carry on the belt? I do have a small set of keys on a brass swivel bolt snap that i clip it on my belt loop with the leather strap attached to the keys inside the rear pocket.Is there any other suggestions? How to better carry keys on a bolt snap,and a cell phone,even without a jacket?

  31. Mr. Fine Young Gentleman…
    What is your viewpoint on wearing western boots with a suit?..The black, dressy and fully polished kind, not the brown suede and matted kind…

  32. Is it okay to wear my red vivienne westwood plastic orb tuxedo slippers with my tux if my pocket square is a matching shade of red or how would I go about arranging this, this is killing me…my collar is winged and my lapel is shawled, no cummerbund instead I use a vest under my jacket the suit is completely black including the tie and shirt for a black out look. The red shoes and pocket square are meant to make a contrasting effect.

  33. Pingback: Rule 13: Elaborating On Cufflinks Without A Jacket - The Fine Young Gentleman

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