The Oliver Wicks Suit Review

The Oliver Wicks Suit Review

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dragon inside suits

A few months back I was approached by Bobby of Oliver Wicks to review the company’s suits.  To be honest, I was a bit hesitant at first, as the website needs some work and the photos on it are not the best.  But now that I have worn my own Oliver Wicks suit, I can say that they do not do the suits proper justice.  But regardless, I do not think that a company’s site should bar it from being reviewed.  The company was also only a few months old at the time so I figured things were only going to improve from there.  Anyway, in short time we spoke via Skype (as the company and its production is based in Bulgaria, which caught my attention being that I know of no other company based there) and agreed that he would comp me a suit that I would in turn review on this here blog.

NOTE: Oliver Wicks was previously known as Dragon Inside.  Recently, the brand changed its name and asked that I change Dragon Inside to Oliver Wicks in this review.  If you have any questions, please contact the brand at custom@oliverwicks.com.  Aug 21, 2015.

As is the case with every company I do a suit or shirt review for I went through the ordering and measuring process like any normal customer would.  I first ordered the Oliver Wicks swatch book, which was important in helping me select the fabric for my suit (I should note that all of the fabrics seemed to be on par in terms of feel and quality with other suits in this price range).  I settled on an ecru base with blue pinstripe linen fabric (which they are now sold out of, I think the price was set at $399/suit for the fabric).  The process went smoothly and was typical for most online made to measure suit operations – select fabric and customizations, input measurements and order.  The process also included a step to include photos of myself via my computers webcam.  I think this is an important step because it should ideally help Oliver Wicks’ tailors get a better idea of the contours of my body.

The suit I ordered had the following options selected.  For the jacket: peak lapels, 2-button, half-lined, non working sleeve buttons, side vents and functioning boutonniere.  For the pants: no cuffs, no pleats, no belt loops, suspender buttons, 2 back pockets.  I would have requested side tabs, however, Oliver Wicks does not offer these yet.

dragon inside suit review

Within three weeks time my suit arrived.  The fit of the jacket was quite good minus the sleeves being about an inch too long (next time I would give myself a little more room in the bicep and ask for a slightly larger armhole).  However, there was a more trying issue.  Which was the buttonhole thread was white and contrasted with the fabric; the look was not ideal.  I asked Bobby to remake the suit based on these two things and he agreed.  Within a few weeks the remade jacket arrived and both issues were resolved, thankfully.

My initial impression of the final suit was largely positive.  I was happy with the fit and the jacket seemed to be made well.  I was initially concerned about the way the shoulders sat and the tightness of the armhole, but after some wearing the shoulders have settled a little and the armhole is more comfortable.  So now the jacket looks and feels good when worn.  The shape and balance of the jacket is aesthetically pleasing.  I look forward to the jacket conforming more to my body over time, as it is fully canvassed I expect it to do so (all suits are fully canvassed, prices start at $399).  I have been happy with the fit of the pants from the beginning, Dragon Inside did an excellent job of following my pant and leg measurements.

But you are welcome to make your own judgements on the fit and construction of the suit, please refer to the photos and comments below.

dragon inside suit reviewdragon inside suit review dragon inside suit review

dragon inside suit review
Everything on the inside of the pants seemed to be par for the course, no complaints here.
dragon inside suit review
I prefer an extended slide tab closure to an extended button closure along the waistband, but everything is well done here.
dragon inside review
The pockets seem to be made of some open weave synthetic. Which leads me to think that they will be highly breathable, which should mesh well with the linen of the suit.
dragon inside review
Clean and presentable around the waistband and pockets.
dragon inside review
Instead of stitching on the hemming, some type of adhesive is used, which has an adverse effect on the drape and line of the pants around the ankle. That said, I would prefer proper stitching.  I am now told by Oliver Wicks  they do stitch instead of use a fusible here, this has changed since my pants were made.
half lined jacket
I was thrilled when Bobby told me they were going to offer half-lined jackets. Crucial with linen jackets, in my opinion. The finishing work is clean and seems to be well done. I also like how they matched the lining around the edges with the pinstripe.
half lined jacket
Clean.

 

dragon inside suits
The lapel is clean and the boutonniere is subtle and straight. Quite happy with this part of the jacket.
dragon inside suits
The sleeve buttons are nicely stacked. However, as I have said before, I do not like when brands add stitching to imitate working button holes when working button holes are not present.
dragon inside suits
Clean on the inside.
dragon inside suits
Buttonholes are perhaps the main area Dragon Inside needs to improve upon. On both jackets I received the button hole stitching was frayed like this.
dragon inside suits
Very well done on the underside of the lapel with the flower loop.  I would prefer of the linen fabric was folded over onto the underside of the collar to prevent any white felt from peeking out along the edge.  I should note that Dragon Inside now does fold over the collar fabric, which is not shown on my jacket as it is a new improvement.
dragon inside suit review
The stripe is matched well on the welting around the breast pocket. However, I am not sure that I have ever seen a pocket like this where it is inset in the chest. I am more of a fan of the typical construction we see on other jackets.
dragon inside suit review
Dragon Inside did a good job of carrying the pinstripe down from the upper part of the jacket to the pockets.
dragon inside suit review
Nice shanking on the jacket buttons. I really like the matching color of the buttons. All of the buttons Dragon Inside uses are Corozo.

To conclude, Oliver Wicks has won me over.  As noted I had some initial hesitation, however, I am glad that I reviewed the brand.  Given, they do have a few things to work on, namely the buttonholes, I think that their suits still present a good value for the customer.  I am impressed with the companies ability to follow my measurements and to have seasonal offerings (linen fabrics and half lining).  The customer service has also been excellent, which I have also heard elsewhere.  Lastly, I know from talking with Bobby that they are planning to continually improve their product.  I surmise that Oliver Wicks will do well for itself and its customers going forward.  So to answer the pressing questions of would I order from Oliver Wicks again and would I recommend them?  The answer to both questions is yes.  If you have any questions or comments on the suit or brand sound off in the comments.

-JLJ

 

Note: FYGblog did receive a suit for review in the process of writing this post.  However, the utmost care was taken in maintaining an unbiased, honest and informative stance on Oliver Wicks.

 

15 COMMENTS

  1. How would you compare Dragon Inside to Black Lapel? I am looking to buying a MTM suit soon and am stuck trying to decide between the two companies.

  2. Full canvas and price point is good. I see you have double darted seat area in the pants, which is good for me also. I recently ordered an Indochino tuxedo, and they don’t accommodate double darts for a better fit in the seat area. I am going through a second remake of the pants, we’ll see how they finally turn out. The button hole fraying is definitely a concern with Dragon Inside, though one may think it’s a minor detail, I think it’s quite noticeable even from afar. I might pose longevity problems with your primary button hole if they don’t hold up over time. Looks reminiscent of cheap MTM suits (<$200) I have gotten made in Asia.

    Do you know what the lining material is is?

    Overall though Dragon Inside does looks to be a viable option to Indochino.

      • Ok. Rayon is fine, as long as it’s not Polyester. I believe the Bemberg lining that Indochino uses is just a more premium rayon, but in general, I find rayon to be very breathable.

        Yes, I think I will give Dragon Inside a try for my next suit.

  3. The suit looks good. I especially like how your lapel look. Did you have to specify how high the gorge is? What is your lapel width?

    I might like the button stance a little lower though.

  4. […] In the series of photos below I will explain my thinking behind each combination.  As a heads up, the ensembles are organized from most formal to least formal.  Which should give you an idea where things stand.  The suit featured is Dragon Inside’s Grey Flannel Suit (which I will be reviewing shortly, but if you don’t want to wait for that, Dragon Inside has gotten better since my first review). […]

  5. How would you compare Oliver Wicks to Indochino in terms of general quality and fit (out of the box) ?

    On paper it looks pretty similar, but Indochino is now getting their share of bad reviews these days. Would you recommend Oliver Wicks over Indochino ?

    Thanks

    • Since so much time has gone by since the review, and responses, regarding Oliver Wicks, and I’m now getting ready to order 3 suits, which MTM company would be your first choice, and any special instructions would be much appreciated.

  6. Whcih is your current favorite MTM company, and any special instructions would be much appreciated.

    • Richard,
      Sorry for the delay. Oliver Wicks is one of my favorites. It somewhat depends on what style suit and what fabrics you are looking for. OW, arguably, has the best selection of seasonal fabrics (flannels and linens) for under $500/600; so if that’s what you are looking for, then go with OW.
      -Justin

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