The Oliver Wicks Suit Review, v2.0

The Oliver Wicks Suit Review, v2.0

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dragon inside suit review
A mid gray flannel

It was only a few months ago that I released my first review of Oliver Wicks’ suits (which was largely positive).  So why review them again so soon?  First, because most of the criticisms that I identified in the first review have been resolved.  Namely, instead of adhesive securing the pant bottoms there is now stitching, the fabric has now been folded over the collar to the underside and there is no fraying around the buttonholes.  Second, Oliver Wicks has introduced some new vest styles and seasonal fabrics they wanted to show off and frankly, I was eager to help show them off.

NOTE: Oliver Wicks was previously known as Dragon Inside.  Recently, the brand changed its name and asked that I change Dragon Inside to Oliver Wicks in this review.  If you have any questions, please contact the brand at custom@oliverwicks.com.  Aug 21, 2015.

Unfortunately, the fabric I selected, The Grey Flannel Suit, is now sold out.  Which in the most blunt way I can say; sucks for all of you because priced at $479 the suit was a steal (but in my case Dragon Inside was nice enough to comp me the suit for this review).  The flannel is from Vitale Barberis Canonico, which makes some solid fabrics and great flannels.  That said, I can’t fault anything about the fabric of the suit.

As was the case with my first suit, and all of Oliver Wicks’ suits, the jacket is fully canvassed.  Which is unique for the $500 market.  For the jacket I chose a nearly identical set up to my first from OW.  Peak lapels, 2 buttons, hacking pockets, non functioning sleeve buttons, side vents and fully lined.  For the pants (I ordered two identical pairs, I recommend you do the same for your suits if you can afford it) I went no cuffs, no pleats, side tabs, two back pockets, suspender buttons and an extended slide tab closure (although they do no offer this option I had to plead for it and they were nice enough to oblige, an extended button closure is what they offer and is also fine).  For the vest I opted for the single breasted with notch lapel style.  The vest has a 5 button front and I went for suit lining for the back of it.  It’s pretty badass.

The fit of the suit, as you will see, is quite good.  I wanted something snug, which is what I got.  Oliver Wicks followed the measurements I gave them quite well.  However, I think I went a little too tight on the chest/upper back and around the wrists and biceps on my measurements.  That said, I think the suit still looks pretty solid.  It is also quite comfortable when on.  It is not constricting when at ease and it keeps a nice shape and silhouette.  But I encourage you to take a look for yourself.

dragon inside suit review
This is the suit without any alterations.  The jacket has a nice shape to it and is not too tight in the front.  I particularly like how Oliver Wicks keeps the gorge and peak high on the jacket.  The buttoning point is also in a good spot; breaking with the trend of a high buttoning point OW keeps is a little more reasonable, thankfully.  You will note the pants have a good bit of break in them.  I think I will shorten them by about a half inch.  But all in all the suit looks very nice from the front without having any alterations.  Personally, I would prefer slightly wider lapels, but that is a matter of my personal taste.  What Oliver Wicks did do well is keeping the height of the pockets in line with the width of the lapels.
dragon inside suit review
Note how the collar of the jacket hugs the collar of my shirt.  There is no collar gap.
online custom suits
As you will see there is a fair amount of creasing and pulling on the back, mostly in the lower part.  Historically, I have had trouble with this on many of my suits.  For future suits from OW I would increase the stomach measurement a little bit which would hopefully alleviate this problem.  I would also make the armhole a little bigger, which I think should alleviate some of the creasing right by the armpit.  I would also increase the rise just a bit which would hopefully eliminate some of the pulling around the hamstring.
online custom suits
I am a huge fan of the lapeled single breasted vest.  I think it is exceptionally elegant and masculine.  Oliver Wicks did a good job of following my measurements on this one and I think the vest looks quite nice.  Now I hope they also come out with a peak lapeled single breasted vest.
online custom suits
The cinch in the back of the vest of crucial for pulling in some of the extra fabric in the back.

If you want to get a better idea of the fit of the suit and how it look when worn please check out the post I put up last week on how to wear a three piece suit.

dragon inside suit review
Clean on the inside.
dragon inside suit review
As I noted, Oliver Wicks now stitches its hems, and does not use an adhesive.  Much better this way.
dragon inside suit review
In my first review I noted that Oliver Wicks was going to start offering side tabs, which they now do.  And they do them quite well.  I like how they used a gunmetal silver for the pants, instead of a brighter silver, I think the gunmetal blends better with the grey of the fabric.
dragon inside suit review
The front of the vest is clean and simple with a 5 button front.
dragon inside suit review
The pockets on the front of the vest are like those on the breast of the jacket.  I am glad they keep them consistent between the two garments.
dragon inside suit review
Some slight roll in the lapel of the vest.  Loving the lapeled vest, can’t say it enough.
dragon inside suit review
As I noted in the first review, I do not like to see stitching around faux buttonholes on the sleeves.  I also do not like to see the button spacing be slightly uneven, as is the case here.  But this is a minor issue in my mind.
dragon inside suit review
The shanking on the jacket buttons has gotten a little cleaner.
online custom suits
I commented on how I liked the flower loop on the underside of the lapel in my first review.  And true to their word, Oliver Wicks has started folding the suit fabric under the collar of the lapel, which is something I like to see; it can help prevent the fabric under the collar from peeking out.
online custom suits
As was the case with the first suit, the boutonniere is nicely done.  Straight and functioning.
online custom suits
One of my main complaints with my first Oliver Wicks suit was that the buttonholes were fraying after only a few wears.  The buttonholes on this suit are NOT doing so and they are also much cleaner.  Well done on resolving this issue.

In conclusion I am very happy with this suit.  It is much easier to get a good fitting suit from a brand on the second suit.  The fabric is excellent and when it was available, it was at a great price.  But more importantly, over the past 6 months it is clear that Oliver Wicks has taken steps to better its suits (and its website), and knowing Bobby (the man behind the operation), they will continue to up their game.  Although they are not perfect (I think they could more openly allow for specific measurements on lapels and other custom options and the shoulders could be a little softer, which is a personal taste thing) they are doing quite well.  As is, I believe Oliver Wicks to be in the top tier of online made to measure operations priced around $500 (along with Black Lapel and Knot Standard), which is respectable considering they have been around for less than a year.  That said, I look forward to seeing what they do in the coming months and years.  If you have any questions or comments, please sound off below.

-JLJ

 

Note: FYGblog did receive this suit for the purpose of this review.   However, as is always the case, the utmost effort is taken to maintain an unbiased and objective point of view.

15 COMMENTS

  1. I’m still torn from ordering from dragon inside or Imparali custom tailors. Have you heard anything about imparali.com?

    • Jared,
      I have not heard anything about Imperali. I used to use them for alterations with mixed results. But in my mind, that reflects little on their suits so I really don’t feel comfortable saying anything either way. Sorry I can’t give more insight there, would love to review them at some point.
      -JLJ

    • Hi Jared,

      If it helps, I just got my first from Dragon Inside, and I’m VERY happy with it. I’ll be writing a detailed review with photos soon over on my blog. Justin is really setting a standard for these kinds of review posts here on FYG, and I hope my review will reach that standard.

      If you’re on the fence, I don’t think you can go wrong with DI. (For the record, I haven’t tried Imparali, but I’ve tried other big MTM companies like Indochino and Arden Reed).

      -Brock

  2. Would you happen to know where I could acquire the tie you are wearing in this photo-shoot? The color is stunning.

  3. Jared,

    I’ve gotten three suits from Imparali plus a jacket and countless shirts. Matt is a good dude and will take care of you. Tell him Evan sent you.

    -Evan

  4. James,
    The tie is a grenadine tie from Chipp2. I would recommend calling the store (which is in midtown manhattan). Paul Stuart and Linkson Jack also sell grenadine ties, although they may not have that green color, they are also more expensive.

    Evan,
    Thanks for sharing your experience, much appreciated.

    -JLJ

  5. Justin,

    Really enjoying your reviews. Question – do you think the fit issues around your lower back could be do to posture? I’ve had similar issues with shirts, and my theory is that slight lordosis is to blame. I’m trying to fix it with postural changes, as well as tailoring, rather than just making adjustments to my clothes.

    -Brock

  6. Looks pretty good, I think – I especially like the fabric. Got one of their suits too and I think they’ll soon become series players!

  7. Sorry, but you need a bit more room in your jacket, specifically in the chest and biceps. Those shoulders also need a more tapered-off fit. You might want another fitting, before you get your next suit. Also, if you take up your trousers, you may cross the line to short pants. Wicks site is annoying. They have no search function, and the old Dragon Inside sign-in panel pops up at every page change.

  8. The jacket is too short , the finish on the jacket lapels, cuffs and bottom of the coat is awful. The spaces on the cuff buttons is wrong.
    It really is not even close to a good looking suit.
    Sorry to be so tough on you, but you should go look at a real suit to see how far off the mark they are.

  9. Very helpful sir! Kudos to you.

    Question about the vest – did you opt to have the back of the vest be the same color as the lining of the suit or did that come standard?

  10. I’m sorry but that suit looks pretty bad. Total redo is in order. Thankfully it was free. Personally I’d scrap it. The thing is who’s fault is it? You said you tweaked the measurements so anyone seeing this suit should as they sometimes do in trials not use this evidence to come to a decision on the Suit Maker. In all fairness to Oliver Wicks you should buy another suit and take the measurements as they instruct then we can make a fair assessment in the quality of their work. Just sayin!

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