Made To Measure Suiting: Black Lapel, Pt II

In this second post in the Black Lapel series we will discuss the initial fit of the suit out of the box.  In the first post, we discussed the measuring and detail selection process; so if you are unfamiliar with it you may find it prudent to read it to catch up on things.  But in short the measuring and fabric selection process was similar to the experiences I have had with other made to measure labels.

For a few weeks I eagerly awaited the delivery of the suit, it arrived three weeks from the order date, as promised.  The fit of the pants and jacket were both off, to the point where it could not be worn without alterations.  But this was not much of a concern or out of the ordinary, as the same had happened with Indochino and Alton Lane.  The pants needed to be lengthened and let out at the waist and thighs.  I always seen to have problems with the fit of my thighs, as they are disproportionately large compared to the rest of my body.  The shoulders of the jacket fit perfectly, which is most important.  However, the sleeves needed be to lengthened about 1,” which could not be done by a tailor as it would create too much distance between the sleeve buttons and the end of the sleeves.  Given that we decided to do a remake of the jacket.  Along with lengthening the sleeves we also took in the waist a little and changed the jacket from a one to two button stance. Refer to the picture below for the original jacket (please excuse the blurry photo, clearly I need to find better photographers).  Much like with Indochino, the remake process was simple and easy.  In this instance I met with Warren of Black Lapel and we figured out what needed amended and he put the changes into my profile.  Easy enough.  If you ordered online or are not based in NYC the process is as simple of applying for a remake and inputting your alterations.

After another three weeks the remade jacket arrived.  As prescribed the sleeves were longer but will still require about a 1/4″ lengthening, and the waist is a little tighter.  The jacket also looked much better with a two button stance.  However, the buttoning point was raised slightly.  I prefer the lower buttoning point of the former jacket.  One thing that is done well on both jackets is the higher notch.  I personally cannot stand low notches, especially on gentlemen of average height such as myself.  A low notch can totally upset the proportions of the jacket.  As previously mentioned the pants have been lengthened which greatly helps in both the look and feel of the pants.

In the third and final post in this series we will discuss the final fit and construction of the Black Lapel  suit.  If you have any questions, comments or want to share your own experience with Black Lapel, feel free to sound off below.

 

Note: FYGblog did receive material compensation when dealing with Black Lapel.  However, rest assured, an unbiased and objective opinion of Black Lapel will be presented.


Comments

Made To Measure Suiting: Black Lapel, Pt II — 12 Comments

  1. Great reviews, I’m considering the MTM route for a navy three piece suit for my wedding. Black Lapel are current favourite because of supposed better construction than Indochino, so interested to read your part three! I’m in England so will have to do it all online. So the fit and need for any potential remakes are concerns.

    • Mark,

      Solid choice going the MTM route. Indeed, Black Lapel’s Black Lapel’s construction quality is higher than Indochino’s. However, the cost is as well. So, if you can afford the extra cost, go for Black Lapel. If you cannot, stick with Indochino. The third post should be up soon (by end of next week), I expect to pick the jacket up from the tailor by the end of this week; I had to get the sleeves lengthened 1/4″.

      -Justin

  2. Pingback: Made To Measure Suiting: Black Lapel, Pt III : The Fine Young Gentleman

  3. Just curious, which fit and lapel width did you choose for your suit? Did you have to specify that you wanted natural shoulders? Some of the guys on the website are either built like linebackers or the suit shoulder extends a bit beyond their own. Thanks for your reviews. :)

    • Jovan,

      I got the widest lapel setting. The shoulders they normally make are natural and have a good look, in my opinion. They used to have a different shoulder design so perhaps some of the suits the guys on the site are wearing are the non natural shoulders. If you have any other questions let me know.

      JLJ

    • Kyle,
      I selected the ‘tailored’ fit. However, also note that I did have the jacket body taken in a little bit. I would recommend the tailored fit for a first suit from BL, as there is more room to take the suit in than let it out.
      Justin

      • I’m fairly slim with a slight chest/stomach difference of 7.75″ but worried about a “feminine”-look on the suit and couldn’t confirm the “tailor” fit look due to lack of reviews/pictures online.

        But I have to say, your BL fit is the best I’ve seen online. Thanks for the help and looking forward to reading your blog more.

        • Kyle,
          I chose a normal notch lapel not a slim. I don’t think any of the 3 settings will make your suit look feminine. If you were to butcher the suit with tailoring akin to Thom Browne, then you would look feminine. If you have more specific questions about the differences between the different fits feel free to email Warren at Black Lapel warren@blacklapel.com. And thank you for the compliments!
          Justin

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