The Knot Standard Review

knot standard review

I was approached last summer by the good people at Knot Standard, until then an unknown name by me in the ever growing made to measure/custom marketplace.  A few things immediately caught my attention.  First, they claimed to be a bespoke operation in that they could accommodate any request yet still keep their price point under $1,000 (more on that later, obviously).  Second, that Knot Standard has its production in Dubai; however, the company is based in New York City.  So we had a nice chat and in short order agreed upon doing a review of the company’s suits and shirts.

Knot Standard has two different ranges; classic ($495) and K ($695).  The primary difference is the construction and fabric.  The Classic range is half canvassed and the K is fully canvassed.  However, I believe Knot Standard will make a K fabric in a Classic form and vice versa.  The fabric diversity is average, however, I think they should start incorporating seasonal fabric choices (linens, cottons and flannels).  The order process is similar to other brands we have discussed (Black Lapel, Indochino).  You create a profile, input your measurements, select your fabric and options.  I also provided a picture of my upper body sans shirt, which although optional I highly recommend it.  This allows their tailors to get a better idea of how your body looks and will make their job easier and ideally you a getter fitting suit.  Is it weird to send them a photo?  No, for centuries tailors have been seeing their clients in their undergarments.  There is also an additional requests section of the order.  This is where you can really go to town – change the width of lapels, gorge height, extended slide tab closure on pants etc.  I got the impression that Knot Standard can handle nearly any request.  And in my case they did this successfully so huge credit there.

Initially I chose a charcoal birdseye fabric from the K range.  The suit was delivered in a timely manner, however, there were a things that Knot Standard got wrong which resulted in having to do a remake (to be fair remakes were also done with Alton Lane, Indochino and Black Lapel).  I met with John Ballay, one of the founders of Knot Standard in New York to go over the suit and give some feedback.  So we agreed on the necessary changes and put in for the remake.  However, we changed the fabric.  Knot Standard informed me that they had some fabrics from Reda in stock and that I could also choose from any of those.  I was quite excited, Reda makes quality mid-price fabric.  I wanted to keep with a similar fabric so I chose a charcoal birdseye, which ended up being a superior fabric to the one from the original suit.  In a few weeks time the suit arrived.

As per usual I excitedly opened the box and tried the suit on.  The fit was far better than the first suit.  The only issue this time was that they raised the jacket buttoning point to be way to high and I specifically asked for a lower buttoning point in my original order.  And it looked as if John took some of my suggestions to heart.  The buttons are now of notable quality.  The side tabs are much more elegant than those on the first set of pants.  And the boutonniere, I couldn’t believe my eyes.  Upon seeing the Milanese buttonhole on the boutonniere I specifically remember exclaiming ‘holy shit!’  For this is something you only see on much higher priced garments (I would certainly recommend requesting this in the additional requests section of your order).  It can only be done by hand and it takes time, practice and skill (see photo below).  The remake suit was clearly a few steps above the original suit.  Check it out below.

knot standard review knot standard review knot standard reviewknot standard review

knot standard button hole

Clean stitching around the buttonhole.

Knot standard buttons

Note the little plastic backing for the jacket buttons. I don’t think this is a necessary detail but it certainly shows good consideration and care for details.

button profile

Nice shanking on the button.

Knot standard jacket lining

Know standard jacket piping

Clean stitching and piping on the interior of the jacket.

Knot standard collar lining

Solid work here. Note how the collar fabric is flipped under to cover the outside part of the collar lining.  This eliminates the possibility of seeing any collar lining when the collar is properly flipped down.

Shoulder stitching

Hand stitched around the shoulder.

jacket breast pocket

Knot standard functional buttonholes

Quality buttons. Clean stitching. Functional.

knot standard milanaese buttonhole

The Milanese buttonhole.  Exceptional elegance.

heel guard

In other reviews I have exalted the presence of an extra layer of fabric along the inside rear edge of the pants. I continue to exalt.

knot standard side tabs

Aforementioned elegant side tabs.

suspender buttons

Suspender buttons with a strip of rubber which helps keep your shirt tucked in, a good detail.

extended slide tab

I requested this extended slide tab closure in the additional requests section and Knot Standard executed it flawlessly.

To conclude.  To be honest, I was a little disappointed with the first suit that Knot Standard sent me.  However, with the remake my disappointment was completely overcome and I was extremely impressed with the remake suit (even with the misplaced button stance, I should note that on future suits this would be resolved).  Generally speaking, the construction quality is very good for the price point and the final fit was also very good.  However, it is Knot Standard’s ability to fulfill unique requests (and a Milanese buttonhole) that really make the brand stand out.  That said, I fully recommend Knot Standard and I look forward to what they will bring to the table going forward.

-JLJ

 

Note: FYGblog did receive free product in the production of this review.

 


Comments

The Knot Standard Review — 10 Comments

    • James,
      Thank you. I would put them both at the same level, at least from what I am able to tell, but I do not profess to be any expert on suit construction. The Milanese buttonhole is something of marvel, however.
      -JLJ

  1. Suit looks good, though I would get some alterations to sort out that rumpling at the back near the vents and shoulder.

    I will definitely consider Knot Standard in the future. From their website, they looked a tad cheap, but your review gave me some more confidence. Thanks!

  2. Justin,

    The Classic Line from Knot Standard is not half canvassed. It is fused. Their $695 Madison line is half canvassed, and their $995 K line is full canvassed.

    From Knot Standard:
    “The most important part of the jacket construction is it’s canvassing type, this is the “frame” on which the fabric sits and provides it with structure. The jacket canvas is made from finely weaved horse hair and allows the suit to drape naturally. Here is a brief outline of how our three suit lines are constructed.

    The Classic Suit -­ Fused: We use state-­‐of-­‐the-­‐art fusing techniques to create the most natural look of a traditional suit. You will notice that there are no bubbles or other imperfections in our Classic Suits and will remain firmly intact dry clean after dry clean.

    The Madison Suit -­ Half-­‐canvassed: If you spend a little more then you expect a little more quality. That’s just what you get. Upgrade to the Madison and experience the difference.

    The K Suit -­ Full-­‐canvassed: For the best, nothing but the best. Our K Suits are fully canvassed, delicately made by hand from the top of the lapel down to the pant’s cuff.”

    • Scott,
      Thanks for mentioning that. It seems that since the time of my review, Knot Standard has changed their pricing and options. When the suit was ordered and reviewed there was only Classic and K lines.
      -JLJ

  3. Pingback: The FYGblog Christmas Gift List - The Fine Young Gentleman

    • Rodney,
      Black Lapel and Knot Standard are pretty much tied on that front in my book. Indochino I wouldn’t recommend at this time. Although, I should be doing another review of them in the next few months.
      -JLJ

  4. I’ve got three suits and a blazer from Indochino and while I like the construction and materials of their premium line, I’ve see consistency issues in fit. The last one I had made, the jacket sleeves weren’t the same length. A shame, as it was nice Reda fabric. They paid to have a local tailor adjust it but I can’t say I’m completely happy. I have one suit from Black Lapel and their concierge is fantastic. The quality seems good but of course, being the first suit I had fit issues to correct. The second and third will tell the tale. But now I’m intrigued with Knot and since they have a “Private” line now where they come to the house and measure you for a fully bespoke creation starting at $795, I’m thinking I want to try that next.

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